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Outdrive stand and lift homemade no welding

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Outdrive stand and lift homemade no welding

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Old 01-13-2012, 06:47 PM
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pics didnt show

Last edited by 32velocity; 01-13-2012 at 06:49 PM. Reason: pics didnt show
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:03 PM
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getting ready to build one.....you say round jacks are bad news?
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:59 AM
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Default Necessity is the "****"

Bust my back the other day. Used to pick up the drive and throw it on without any trouble but.... So It ain't pretty but I put it together from scrapes. I raise or lower the lift to the right height and then the cradle slides the drive in place while I guide the spline and turn the shaft.
Dang can't find a way to post image on this site??
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:38 PM
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I know this is not a DIY but for the price....

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4311_200514311
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by troper
I know this is not a DIY but for the price....

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4311_200514311
Identical to the $800 JO6 Yardarm?

http://yardarm.com/marine_products/s...installers.htm
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:59 PM
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I just bought one of these too ... great price..

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4311_200514311
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Gizmo
Okay guys, Here are the measurements for my drive stand.
Click on the link to see the picture. I have labeled the pieces A-D.

A = 24"
B = 24"
C = 21"
D = 4 1/4"

A & B are 2"x2" thin wall box tubing.

B should have a straight cut on one end and a slight angle cut on the other. I think that angle is somewhere in the 15-17 degree range. The exact location for the forward legs isn't critical. What I did, was, put the angle ends of the legs out far enough from the center so the far end is just a little wider than the back tube.

C is 1"x1 1/2" rectangle tube, thin wall. two pieces 21" long and one piece 4 1/4" long. Weld the 21" pieces to the short piece. These are the lift arms and are located no less than 19 1/2" from the flor. This measurement is to keep the skeg from hitting the ground when the jack is in it's lowest position.

D needs to be 4 1/4" apart so the drive will fit between.

I used 3" h-d casters. 275lb. capacity each. Put swivel casters on all 4 corners.

I also put cork gasket material on the lift arms to keep from scratching the drive.

The jack is a 3000lb weld on tongue jack (square body). I caught it on sale for about $45.

I hope this helps. I may put a couple together after the new year
Gizmo: Thanks for sharing. I'm going to build two of these, one with the jack for R+R and one without the jack to store the other drive. I'll have both drives off the boat at the same time for a while when I'm removing the motors, so this will be much better then the 10X10 wood block with a wide saw cut in it that I have now! lol
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:22 PM
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Great thread!
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:20 PM
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Last edited by 32velocity; 11-05-2012 at 12:26 PM. Reason: trying to load pics
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:23 PM
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https://picasaweb.google.com/32veloc...eat=directlink


I made this at work a year ago,, no jack,but totally adjustable ,, the head has 4 bolts and 2 pivot bolts to set the angle of drive to suit boat raise and lower drive with a ratchet , for questions or sizes just ask,,,,,
credit to Gizmo for the idea

Last edited by 32velocity; 11-05-2012 at 12:34 PM. Reason: trying to post pics , finally posted link
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