Outdrive stand and lift homemade no welding
12-13-2007, 03:17 PM
#32
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Kr1276 - It probably will not be before this weekend. I have a bunch of stuff to do. As soon as I get a chance, I will either jot down the numbers or sketch it for you. Thanks for being patient!!
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12-13-2007, 04:26 PM
#34
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12-19-2007, 11:28 PM
#36
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Okay guys, Here are the measurements for my drive stand.
Click on the link to see the picture. I have labeled the pieces A-D.
A = 24"
B = 24"
C = 21"
D = 4 1/4"
A & B are 2"x2" thin wall box tubing.
B should have a straight cut on one end and a slight angle cut on the other. I think that angle is somewhere in the 15-17 degree range. The exact location for the forward legs isn't critical. What I did, was, put the angle ends of the legs out far enough from the center so the far end is just a little wider than the back tube.
C is 1"x1 1/2" rectangle tube, thin wall. two pieces 21" long and one piece 4 1/4" long. Weld the 21" pieces to the short piece. These are the lift arms and are located no less than 19 1/2" from the flor. This measurement is to keep the skeg from hitting the ground when the jack is in it's lowest position.
D needs to be 4 1/4" apart so the drive will fit between.
I used 3" h-d casters. 275lb. capacity each. Put swivel casters on all 4 corners.
I also put cork gasket material on the lift arms to keep from scratching the drive.
The jack is a 3000lb weld on tongue jack (square body). I caught it on sale for about $45.
I hope this helps. I may put a couple together after the new year
Click on the link to see the picture. I have labeled the pieces A-D.
A = 24"
B = 24"
C = 21"
D = 4 1/4"
A & B are 2"x2" thin wall box tubing.
B should have a straight cut on one end and a slight angle cut on the other. I think that angle is somewhere in the 15-17 degree range. The exact location for the forward legs isn't critical. What I did, was, put the angle ends of the legs out far enough from the center so the far end is just a little wider than the back tube.
C is 1"x1 1/2" rectangle tube, thin wall. two pieces 21" long and one piece 4 1/4" long. Weld the 21" pieces to the short piece. These are the lift arms and are located no less than 19 1/2" from the flor. This measurement is to keep the skeg from hitting the ground when the jack is in it's lowest position.
D needs to be 4 1/4" apart so the drive will fit between.
I used 3" h-d casters. 275lb. capacity each. Put swivel casters on all 4 corners.
I also put cork gasket material on the lift arms to keep from scratching the drive.
The jack is a 3000lb weld on tongue jack (square body). I caught it on sale for about $45.
I hope this helps. I may put a couple together after the new year
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Jay
Jay
12-21-2007, 12:33 PM
#40
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If any of you guys should put a patent on the little jewel, just remember me when the checks start rolling in!!!!!! 
Happy Welding........
Happy Welding........
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Jay
Jay
