formula31

I had a crack by the exhaust valve seat that wetted one runner in the exhaust manifold.

Grog

No new updates yet. My job has been running me ragged and keeping me away from home too much.

The intake/blower is still off but everything is clean and ready to go back together. I also have the intake gaskets (Fel Pro 1275's).

Nothing has been pressure tested yet but the plan for this weekend is to make it all happen. Also in the plan is to do the standard 2-3 oil changes required to get all of the crap out of the block.

I am hoping it is not a crack in a casting. I feel pretty good about it since the last time the motor went together, the heads and block were magnafluxed (sp?) and they haven't seen any bad heat since then. (In denial here. Not ready to think about cracked castings. Makes my head hurt.)

Question: I am thinking that the exhaust manifolds really do not see much water pressure during normal operation. So, when I test them, I shouldn't need much. Sound right?

Re: Blue Thunder's comment on cam timing and reversion. To be off enough to allow reversion, wouldn't I notice it running like crap? It starts, idles, and runs very smooth.

cstraub

Grog,
After market blocks have an extra bolt hole above 2 cylinders on each side of a BBC. The OEM stuff we use to machine and mount a "lug" to take advantage of clamping this area down. It is a weak area for boosted engines as the gasket can move. I have seen engines loose water out of the cooling hole in this area and leak it up to and in the lifter valley.

If it comes apart look for water marks in this area.

Grog

I assume these are the 4 holes that the Whipple intake does not use. I plugged them with Allen set screws and thread sealant.

I looked for evidence of leaking when I removed the intake. Unfortunately, any evidence was destroyed because the intake gasket came apart when I removed the intake due to the gasket adhesives used with the previous assembly.

On the heads, there was a lot of discolorization (black) around the water ports and near the exhaust crossover.

Can anybody tell me what the cavity around the exhaust crossover is for? There was oil or old fuel (I couldn't tell which) in it when I removed the intake.

Grog

BTW....Pressure checked both exhaust manifolds.....both good. Intake/blower goes back on tomorrow. Using Permatex "Right Stuff" on the intake around the water ports and bolt holes.

The weather here in AZ is beginning to warm. I hope this works.

If this goes right, I owe everybody that helped me on this a drink.....or two.

cig1988

Are you going to pressure test the block?

formula31

No, you are referring to the top threaded intake holes on the heads. Some manifolds dont use them.

Cstraub is referring to an extra set of threaded blocks added to the intake valley area right below the heads to add head bolts and allow better clamping on the intake side of the head. Some aftermarket blocks come with these and they can be added to stock blocks.

Rock it

The other source is cold oil. If you don't build any oil temp, the condensation will build up. A oil thermistate may solve this problem

cstraub

Formula31 is correct to what I was talking about. I believe Dean Gellner brought up Bob at Performance Gaskets. Years ago he pointed me in this direction on some issue we were having with water getting in the oil. This area of the head does not have the extra clamping force and under boost it can be worse.

johnnyboatman

i had a head magnafluxed once and they missed a hair line crack in the head stud boss, thought the stud was seeping but when the engine warmed up it started pouring.