Help me build my 454, step by step
#1
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Ok
This is the first engine that i will completely rebuild on my own. I am going to need a lot of advice along the way. Its not in my boat, its in my 72 nova. I figured i would tackle this since i wouldnt have any downtime in my boat if things went wrong
Heres what im starting with.
454 block, needs to be bored .060 over.
cast crank, been turned and in good shape .010/.010
I have a set of stock rods that are in good shape.
The heads i have suck, and need recommendations on that.
So where do we start?
Im taking the block in to be bored. do i need anything else done?
are the rods good?
what should i start thinking about as far as pistons and a kit go?
The goal here is to have a streetable car that is fast. i do have a budget, but at the same time want to build a decent engine. no top of the line, but no junk either. i would like to see 500hp out of it.
Please be patient with me as i will be asking a ton of questions, ive never done the entire thing before and am looking forward to it. Ill post pics and progress as we go along.
Thanks to all in advance
Jason
This is the first engine that i will completely rebuild on my own. I am going to need a lot of advice along the way. Its not in my boat, its in my 72 nova. I figured i would tackle this since i wouldnt have any downtime in my boat if things went wrong
![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Heres what im starting with.
454 block, needs to be bored .060 over.
cast crank, been turned and in good shape .010/.010
I have a set of stock rods that are in good shape.
The heads i have suck, and need recommendations on that.
So where do we start?
Im taking the block in to be bored. do i need anything else done?
are the rods good?
what should i start thinking about as far as pistons and a kit go?
The goal here is to have a streetable car that is fast. i do have a budget, but at the same time want to build a decent engine. no top of the line, but no junk either. i would like to see 500hp out of it.
Please be patient with me as i will be asking a ton of questions, ive never done the entire thing before and am looking forward to it. Ill post pics and progress as we go along.
Thanks to all in advance
Jason
#2
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if you can get a forged crank and rods, bettr....then put in flat top aluminum pistons, low compression, a good set of Brodix or Dart heads.......and ready for a blower in the future .........why stop at 500hp
good luck
![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
good luck
#3
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Why do you think you need to bore it .060?
You are better to bore it the minimum, so you have room for future rebuilds
Get the rods checked out and resized if needed.
Take the block to a good machine shop and they will lead you in the right direction.
Another option buy a stroker kit and you can make easy H.P.
Best advise buy a book like Dennis Moore high performance big blocks good reading even if you are building a car engine.
I bet most people on the board started with car engines before taking the plunge into high dollar boat engines![Drink](/forums/images/smilies/drink.gif)
Hell I paid more for my current set of heads than I did my first two cars..
JIM
You are better to bore it the minimum, so you have room for future rebuilds
![EEK!](/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Get the rods checked out and resized if needed.
Take the block to a good machine shop and they will lead you in the right direction.
Another option buy a stroker kit and you can make easy H.P.
Best advise buy a book like Dennis Moore high performance big blocks good reading even if you are building a car engine.
I bet most people on the board started with car engines before taking the plunge into high dollar boat engines
![Drink](/forums/images/smilies/drink.gif)
Hell I paid more for my current set of heads than I did my first two cars..
JIM
Last edited by 1BIGJIM; 04-10-2006 at 07:49 PM.
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not to be smart but best to buy a couple of books on the subject then ask which of the theories are the best to go with there are many many good books out there Im sure if you ask everyone will chime in with there favorite
just a suggestion
just a suggestion
#6
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Originally Posted by formula31
"How to HotRod the Big-Block Chevy" H. P. Books. Bill Fisher and Bob Waar.
Also, take the engine to a good, reputable, precision machine shop in your area with all the right equipment that is familiar with hi-perf engines. They should be able to tell you what is good or bad.
I would do a search on here about rebuilding a 454. There's a TON of good info to be had in the archives. Have fun with your project.
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Heavy car you need torque:
Block if it can go .030" you are better off for the future if not .060" is fine and .070" pistons are common. I personally like the KB Hypers, they are a great piston for the money and if the rings are gapped correctly they will run for 100K miles no problem. You can also use them as press fit for OEM rods or floaters for aftermaket stuff.
Line hone is critical on an engine. Be sure the shop checks it and corrects it if need be.
Fresh deck surface is always a plus to insure gasket seal. Have them deck the block. If you want to "blueprint" the piston to deck then you'll have the block square decked and proper clearance set for quench. Std decking runs around $100, square decking will cost around $300.
Cast OEM crank is fine for 500HP goal. Have the shop champer the oil holes.
Stock rods need to be checked for tolerance and machined if out of spec. Put a good set of rod bolts in. Now new aftermarket rods are very affordable. If your OEM rods need bolts and reszing then it may be cheaper to go with a new set of aftermarkets.
That should get you started.
Block if it can go .030" you are better off for the future if not .060" is fine and .070" pistons are common. I personally like the KB Hypers, they are a great piston for the money and if the rings are gapped correctly they will run for 100K miles no problem. You can also use them as press fit for OEM rods or floaters for aftermaket stuff.
Line hone is critical on an engine. Be sure the shop checks it and corrects it if need be.
Fresh deck surface is always a plus to insure gasket seal. Have them deck the block. If you want to "blueprint" the piston to deck then you'll have the block square decked and proper clearance set for quench. Std decking runs around $100, square decking will cost around $300.
Cast OEM crank is fine for 500HP goal. Have the shop champer the oil holes.
Stock rods need to be checked for tolerance and machined if out of spec. Put a good set of rod bolts in. Now new aftermarket rods are very affordable. If your OEM rods need bolts and reszing then it may be cheaper to go with a new set of aftermarkets.
That should get you started.
#9
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from what I see and I am really no expert. I only have put together 3 engines in my life, but had a good machine shop walk me through it. If you need to recondition the rods, turn the crank, and new Hyper pistons, you might just want to get a good inexpensive stroker kit. I think Scat has a good kit for a little more than you machining of your old parts. That is what I'm looking to do. Still have your machine shop look over all your new components though.
Also I thought I saw somewhere that there are now DVD's out about building engines. (for those of us who can't read, and by allot of peoples spelling it is the majority of us)
my $0.02
Also I thought I saw somewhere that there are now DVD's out about building engines. (for those of us who can't read, and by allot of peoples spelling it is the majority of us)
my $0.02
#10
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Originally Posted by cstraub
Heavy car you need torque:
Block if it can go .030" you are better off for the future if not .060" is fine and .070" pistons are common. I personally like the KB Hypers, they are a great piston for the money and if the rings are gapped correctly they will run for 100K miles no problem. You can also use them as press fit for OEM rods or floaters for aftermaket stuff.
Line hone is critical on an engine. Be sure the shop checks it and corrects it if need be.
Fresh deck surface is always a plus to insure gasket seal. Have them deck the block. If you want to "blueprint" the piston to deck then you'll have the block square decked and proper clearance set for quench. Std decking runs around $100, square decking will cost around $300.
Cast OEM crank is fine for 500HP goal. Have the shop champer the oil holes.
Stock rods need to be checked for tolerance and machined if out of spec. Put a good set of rod bolts in. Now new aftermarket rods are very affordable. If your OEM rods need bolts and reszing then it may be cheaper to go with a new set of aftermarkets.
That should get you started.
Block if it can go .030" you are better off for the future if not .060" is fine and .070" pistons are common. I personally like the KB Hypers, they are a great piston for the money and if the rings are gapped correctly they will run for 100K miles no problem. You can also use them as press fit for OEM rods or floaters for aftermaket stuff.
Line hone is critical on an engine. Be sure the shop checks it and corrects it if need be.
Fresh deck surface is always a plus to insure gasket seal. Have them deck the block. If you want to "blueprint" the piston to deck then you'll have the block square decked and proper clearance set for quench. Std decking runs around $100, square decking will cost around $300.
Cast OEM crank is fine for 500HP goal. Have the shop champer the oil holes.
Stock rods need to be checked for tolerance and machined if out of spec. Put a good set of rod bolts in. Now new aftermarket rods are very affordable. If your OEM rods need bolts and reszing then it may be cheaper to go with a new set of aftermarkets.
That should get you started.
Thanks. Im going to get all that going.
As far as heads. Ive got 3 sets that i have access to. 049's 188's and 781's. Whats the best out of those, or should i go aftermarket?