GOODT

the point just before the drive gets to the studs is where the splines start to make contact, is the drive in gear and are you turning the prop shaft in the correct direction to spin the input shaft while pushing the drive in ???

Stupid question but has to be asked

nordic95

Yes,I turned to the point that the motor started to turn over.I can feel the splines engage and then slip in about a quarter inch and thats it.I may have to fly you up here Goodt,A little working vacation in the north.


Nordic95

GOODT

You are always welcome in our neck of the woods


give me a call alittle latter and we' ll see if we can figure this out

Joe

Tinkerer

it will only take ten minutes to take the input shaft off the U joint.
do that and see if it will go all the way in. Just don't beat it in or you will have hell getting it back out.

nordic95

I can't believe its finally in.I just got the drive to go into place.Only 9 hours to install one drive,not bad right?I ended up pulling the motor back out and just like I thought the splines of the brand new coupler were damaged.I don't know if I did it ,but it looked like a bad machine job or someone tried hitting in a larger shaft or something.The splines had a gouge on each side of each spline and on every spline.Now if the motor was not aligned properly when I tried to install drive yesterday I would think only a little section would be damaged where the yoke hit,but who knows.Then after cleaning up the damage and replacing the motor it still did not want to go in.So the motor came back out to check for and spline damage I might have missed the first round.Then motor went back in and this time I left the front mounts loose and just wiggled the motor a little bit as drive was being pushed on and it slipped right in.Has any one ever seen a coupler not machined right or damaged in the box?Thanks to every one for there input and trying to help and Goodt I owe you another beer for the advice,I'll hook up with you soon.

Thanks Nordic95

US1 Fountain

Did you pull the drive and recheck alignment after you got the motor tightened back up?

nordic95

No I am scared ,I have off shore mounts and no adjustment.I even pulled mounts off to see if holes were elongated and they were tight on the bolts.I though maybe the mounts settled.The shaft went right in all the way with just a push when mounts were tight.I think the damage to splines took up and extra space for shaft to slide in easily.Even with the motor out I had to tap with my hand pretty hard on the drive to set the shaft into the coupler as a test.Then with the motor in I didn't want to use any force so I just left the nuts a couple of turn loose with the chain holding and weight and it went in.Do you think I should try and recheck it?I think my buddies will shoot me if I even ask for help with that after two days on it.

Nordic95

US1 Fountain

Don't know. But when I replaced both of my couplers, my motor mounts were off. They are the offshore type also. I could get the alignmet dead on, then as soon as I tightened the motor mounts, the alignment shaft wouldn't go in. After alot of cussing, I discovered that Fountain bolted the Alum angles in leaning forward at top. So when I tightened the bolts, it woul dlift the rear of the motor up. Once I got the alignment back in with the motor not tight, I made shims that varied thicker at the top bolt, then thinner as went down. I didn't want to mess with changing the Alum plates. NO WAY the drives went on with the motors bolted tight. They had to have left the motors loose, slipped on the drives, then tighten the motor mounts. ***** was they did it on both motors. Must have been a Monday boat. Both couplers shot completely with only 125 hrs.

US1 Fountain

I was censored.

cig1988

How old are the rubber bushings on the bellhousing?