496 sea water pump
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word of warning on the 496 style pumps, if the housing is scored do not change the impeller unless it is bad, alot of times the new impeller will not pump due tp capitation because the new impeller is not shaped to the housing(thats the problem with the brass housing) if this happens the only cure is to replace the housing
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Housing was in good shape. No scoring. Ran it this morning at the local lake and all looks good.
Even though it didn't draw water when I first started it, I back flushed from the top of the motor and from the out drive when the pump was disconnected. I got several bits and pieces of impeller from each direction. I'm glad this board is around to provide all the advice and tips for stuff like this!
Even though it didn't draw water when I first started it, I back flushed from the top of the motor and from the out drive when the pump was disconnected. I got several bits and pieces of impeller from each direction. I'm glad this board is around to provide all the advice and tips for stuff like this!
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Originally Posted by GOODT
word of warning on the 496 style pumps, if the housing is scored do not change the impeller unless it is bad, alot of times the new impeller will not pump due tp capitation because the new impeller is not shaped to the housing(thats the problem with the brass housing) if this happens the only cure is to replace the housing
Are you saying that as soon as you see scores, no matter the degree it should be machined and brassed?
Here is a picture of the situation:
Last edited by JS232; 04-23-2006 at 03:34 PM.
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Originally Posted by GOODT
that may or may not cause it to cavitate 50 50 shot
Mmmm... I don't like 50/50 equations in boating... I'l call a machine shop tomorrow and see what they can do and how $$$ it would cost. I am also worrying about damage that could be done to the shaft assy by heat when soldering and planing the brass. A replacement pump costs 268$. At that price, I'd better just replace it.
I found different costs on the 496's Brass pumps depending on the engine serial number... The other model costs 500$
![EEK!](/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Last edited by JS232; 04-23-2006 at 07:36 PM.
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There is a machine shop in Lake Havasu City, AZ that makes a shim kit for the scored brass housings. Contact Absolute Speed and Marine in LHC for the machine shop and kit..... The fix for the plate is to have it brazed and machined flat.
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Originally Posted by LHC30Victory
There is a machine shop in Lake Havasu City, AZ that makes a shim kit for the scored brass housings. Contact Absolute Speed and Marine in LHC for the machine shop and kit..... The fix for the plate is to have it brazed and machined flat.
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My 03 496HO's, got their 1st impeller change this week, 143 hours, and every thing looked like new, replaced all just for GP. Normally this is an annual thing for me on my boats.
I skipped last year due to minimal run hours.
I always do my first start of the season IN THE WATER, not on a hose.
Now I have 2 emergency spares...
My 2 Cents.
Bryan
I skipped last year due to minimal run hours.
I always do my first start of the season IN THE WATER, not on a hose.
Now I have 2 emergency spares...
My 2 Cents.
Bryan
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Been lurking for some time now and have received lots of helpful advice. So, thanks to all that have posted their efforts for the rest of us to gain from.
Anyway, just put a new impeller in too. loads of fun! I would think Merc could come up with a better design or easier access.
Question is:
Can you hook up a hose to the Bravo 1x to test run? it has the littlest pick up holes in the worst location.
Anyway, just put a new impeller in too. loads of fun! I would think Merc could come up with a better design or easier access.
Question is:
Can you hook up a hose to the Bravo 1x to test run? it has the littlest pick up holes in the worst location.