parnelli(rc)jones

Thanks for all the response. I did a leak down test today and it shows cylinders #1,5,7,4, & 8 has 15% leakdown, #3,2, & 6 has 20% leakdown. I knew the motor is running to good to have internal damage. Like I said it seems there is air being forced into the crankcase from somewhere. I have pirometers on the motor and when it got up to 1300 to 1400 degrees I would back out of it. I always tried to keep it below 1200 degrees when I was test running it. I know that if I let the temp. get too high that I wiil detonate the motor. Each time I took it out, if it wouldn't run right I wouldn't try to keep running it I would just take it back in and try something else. I spoke with Arizona Speed last week and they have a software program now for the MEFI 4 computer that I installed to further tune the fuel curves to get it perfect. All I need to do is buy a laptop, they supply the cord also to hook it up.

parnelli(rc)jones

To Lab: Where is the ventilation tube you talking about. I have looked over the intake area and don't see anything like what your explaining. If there is something like what your talking about, it would make perfect sense to why there is air being force into the crankcase and when I put my hand over the filler neck the rpms would raise because the air is being forced into back into the intake. Let me know where to look. Thanks

articfriends

Very interesting,Smitty

Doctor V

I don't mean to scare you, but I have an 2002 496HO motor that I had a procharger 5lb kit with the fuel upgrades installed on. After a short time the pistons began to break at the ring land. I since then have installed forged rods and pistons from Raylar, Cometic head gaskets and I sent the ECM to Whipple to make a few adjustments. I have seen about 50% of the procharger 496 kits work out OK but I was not so lucky. I think you are running on borrowed time, even if the engine is tuned perfect. My experience with procharger tech line was awful. I must admit that in the end the boat performs great but it was hell gettin there.

parnelli(rc)jones

Today I went over the installation manual to see if the installer missed something. He did. The block off plate that goes between the intake manifold and the throttle body was missing as per the inst ructions. I made a plate and installed it and whola the problem is gone. Now when I throttle up the motor there is vacume at the filler tube and the oil should stay in the crankcase. I know that sooner or later I'm going to have to install better components to make this motor reliable but I not going beat the boat like I see alot of guys out there. I'm getting ready to service the motor now that I know the problems solved and need some input on what I should use. I just don't think that the factory stuff is up to par for high performance applications and extreme use. I was thinking of Kendall racing 20W-50 or Valvoline syn. racing 20W-50. What would be a good oil filter? I've used frams HP's in my race cars with good luck and thinking of this for my boat as well. Am I over looking anything? Thanks