taking off circ pump, engine pics
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WHERES THE NEW MILLS
raw water on mine goes thru strainer to raw water pump to trans cooler(bellhouse) to oil cooler to cross over.
randy at cobra has some 12/71 blower shop blowers with like 5 hours on them the guy traded up to 16/71's. i dont know if he will break up the pair. give him a call his cell is 305-343-2591 he should have manifolds as well as the rest of the stuff you'll need. what is the comp ratio on your 540's?
#12
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Originally Posted by birdog
Water pumps dont know if you have a blower or not....
Without them you run the chance of steam pockets in the back of the heads
& high pres. issues. Not always but some.For what ?
Without them you run the chance of steam pockets in the back of the heads
& high pres. issues. Not always but some.For what ?
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Originally Posted by customryder
I was told no thermostat on blower engines to help with detonation. if you have very much boost the engine will know it. ... from what im told.
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nocigarette a 6/71 is too small and will have to work too hard to make any boost, min 10/71 or pref a 12/71, also run an intercooler. you need to stablize the engine temp so run a 140 thermostat so you wont have exccessive piston to wall clearances when the water is cold. my blower intakes dont have a themostat provision so im running large oil coolers and an oil t stat, i also am in fl so will never see 60* water and will get my oil up to temp before i hammer it. your drive should be ok with 900hp but it will like 850 or less better, im a little over what a #3 will handle and be reliable with 1000hp. so im still looking to get a pair of #3a's. let me know if you want a spare #3 drive as im selling my 3's as soon as my blower motors are here at the house.
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The reason....Reducing water temps reduces your chance of detonation. It gives you an extra margin for safety. This is fact! This does come at a price with the increase in water condensation(remedied partially by thermostatic oil coolers), as was stated the possibility of steam pockets(remedied by proper water pressure and hose routing.) One thing to consider with the thermostat is that it really cuts down on water flow. If you want to go this route, I would get a 120 thermostat and drill some holes in it to increase flow.
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thanks guys,
Phil i am at 9 1/2 to 1 on compression know i think i will go down a little, i should not due this the boat runs awsome know, but i cant help it.I cant wait to see your new mills that mistress is going to hammer in the heavey stuff, no mufflers the first time f it ....
i might be interested in a drive for the right price we will talk.....
Phil i am at 9 1/2 to 1 on compression know i think i will go down a little, i should not due this the boat runs awsome know, but i cant help it.I cant wait to see your new mills that mistress is going to hammer in the heavey stuff, no mufflers the first time f it ....
i might be interested in a drive for the right price we will talk.....
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Originally Posted by KYElimEagle
The reason....Reducing water temps reduces your chance of detonation. It gives you an extra margin for safety. This is fact! This does come at a price with the increase in water condensation(remedied partially by thermostatic oil coolers), as was stated the possibility of steam pockets(remedied by proper water pressure and hose routing.) One thing to consider with the thermostat is that it really cuts down on water flow. If you want to go this route, I would get a 120 thermostat and drill some holes in it to increase flow.
I agree..6-71 seems small...Big blower, turn it slow= less heat
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bird dog where exactly are ya located i would like to see how you plumbed everything, maybe one day if your out or not real busy
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The boat pictured is now the OSO raffle boat...Who knows where it will end up !
....468s with 8-71s....My 540s i have now will end up with 10-71s...still no crossovers..
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