Oil change on fresh rebuild?
#1
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Well after waiting 10 weeks for a shorter timing chain for my line bored 502 blower motor I finally got if fired this past weekend. New lifters, Manley forged pistons, oil cooler and lines, rods, and all new bearings.
How long till the first oil change? I have always heard not to run synthetic until broken in. My breakin schedule (for no particular reason) is one hour between 2500 and 3500. After one hour gradual increase to near WFO every 20 minutes without holding at WFO until two hours. Third hour several WFO but only held for 1 minute then call it good. I though this might be a good time to change oil and still stay with the Rotella for an additional 25 hours. After the 25 hours back to Mobil 1.
Any thoughts or recommendations? 502 with B&M 250 at 5 psi boost.
New oil cooler setup from Fred with oil temp gauge in pan has not shown over 210 as of yet but I have not run it hard.
Tim T.
How long till the first oil change? I have always heard not to run synthetic until broken in. My breakin schedule (for no particular reason) is one hour between 2500 and 3500. After one hour gradual increase to near WFO every 20 minutes without holding at WFO until two hours. Third hour several WFO but only held for 1 minute then call it good. I though this might be a good time to change oil and still stay with the Rotella for an additional 25 hours. After the 25 hours back to Mobil 1.
Any thoughts or recommendations? 502 with B&M 250 at 5 psi boost.
New oil cooler setup from Fred with oil temp gauge in pan has not shown over 210 as of yet but I have not run it hard.
Tim T.
#2
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I would change it after the first time out. There is all kinds of crud in there even if you are careful and clean. Running it the first time washes it down into the oil pan.
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Funny how everyone has their own way of break-in. Many, Many engine builders go straight from assembly to dyno. Theres nothing harder than a 7k dyno pull on a fresh motor. All my motors go straight to dyno for tune, then change oil and cut the filter open to check for any issues.
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Originally Posted by woody1
Funny how everyone has their own way of break-in. Many, Many engine builders go straight from assembly to dyno. Theres nothing harder than a 7k dyno pull on a fresh motor. All my motors go straight to dyno for tune, then change oil and cut the filter open to check for any issues.
That's why so many motors break on a dyno..
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Why's that ?
With roller cams we either hit the dyno hard or go right to the track and race......after a 10-20 minute break in (oil is then changed - filter inspected)which is actually more just running to check for leaks, adjustments, etc,etc.
I'm truly interested if there is actually a better way .
With roller cams we either hit the dyno hard or go right to the track and race......after a 10-20 minute break in (oil is then changed - filter inspected)which is actually more just running to check for leaks, adjustments, etc,etc.
I'm truly interested if there is actually a better way .
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Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser
My feeling is (though not practical)...save the dyno for after a 20 hour break-in is achieved.
That's why so many motors break on a dyno..
That's why so many motors break on a dyno..
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After first start up it is a good idea to change filter and cut open and inspect.
My motor went from the engine builder to the dyno, ran it long enough to set the timing and run the valves, Maybe 5 minutes, next run was to 6k max load
![EEK!](/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Used to hang out there, watched him make 7 and 8k pulls on new motors many a time