190 hrs on H.O. Change to synthetic?
10-10-2006, 09:18 AM
#11
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Re: 190 hrs on H.O. Change to synthetic?
Originally Posted by ZP'd
So switching with 190hours on the 496 won't cause gasket issues ????
Don't need no stinkin oil leaks and I've been told by a auto mechanic that my motor has too many hours on to switch over now...
So no-one has ever seen leaks after switching over ????
Don't need no stinkin oil leaks and I've been told by a auto mechanic that my motor has too many hours on to switch over now...
So no-one has ever seen leaks after switching over ????
10-10-2006, 09:21 AM
#12
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Re: 190 hrs on H.O. Change to synthetic?
There's no truth to that... synthetic oil does NOT damage seals in any way, shape or form. Using too thin of a synthetic oil (or any type of oil for that matter) such as 0W-30 in some cases MAY cause a little oil to push past the seals and some gaskets, but you would never use that thin of an oil in an offshore motor anyways.
10-10-2006, 09:38 AM
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Re: 190 hrs on H.O. Change to synthetic?
Originally Posted by Rippem
In order for this to be a distinct disadvantage of synthetic, the pickup would have to be scavenging right off the bottom of the pan, literally sucking right off the metal of the pan. Marine engine or not, in a 9-10 qt. system, moisture as related to volume is nil (unless you have issues, see below). So what do you think? moisture boils off the "top" (of dino oil) of the volume in the sump like mom's pudding (skin) ?? If the (dino) oil sitting in the sump is that hot or boiling...you've got bigger "issues".
Nooooo. moisture is evaporated back into atmosphere when it is heated and squeezed at the molecular level on mating and wear surfaces! So it's all the same...in respect to oil (in use at operating temp) ridding itself of H20.
If your accumulating enough moisture to make this even worth discussing you have cooler leaks, reversion issues, or are running your engines too cold an operating temp!
This whole bit about moisture is a moot point. Don't get people worrying about something that is NOT a factor in the choice of dino vs. syn.
Nooooo. moisture is evaporated back into atmosphere when it is heated and squeezed at the molecular level on mating and wear surfaces! So it's all the same...in respect to oil (in use at operating temp) ridding itself of H20.
If your accumulating enough moisture to make this even worth discussing you have cooler leaks, reversion issues, or are running your engines too cold an operating temp!
This whole bit about moisture is a moot point. Don't get people worrying about something that is NOT a factor in the choice of dino vs. syn.
And switching to a synthetic will not cause leaks.
Last edited by ghittner; 10-10-2006 at 09:39 AM. Reason: add words
10-10-2006, 10:54 AM
#15
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Re: 190 hrs on H.O. Change to synthetic?
Originally Posted by Chris288
for my H.O. I mix 5 quarts of 15-50 M1 and 5 quarts of 20-50 castrol GTX heavy duty, figure I got the best of both worlds..
10-10-2006, 11:16 AM
#16
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Re: 190 hrs on H.O. Change to synthetic?
Best of both worlds would be Mobil-1 v-twin 20/50 or similar 4cycle motorcycle oil. Oils intended for cars have had some of the wear additives reduced to comply with emission rules.
Expensive though
Expensive though
10-10-2006, 03:47 PM
#17
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Re: 190 hrs on H.O. Change to synthetic?
Originally Posted by ghittner
I always thought that water evaporates out of oil due to the heat of the oil at temp, approx 180-240 degrees it has a lower boiling point of the two fluids. Oil whether petroleum or synthetic, cleans/purifies itself while running the engine at temp.
And switching to a synthetic will not cause leaks.
And switching to a synthetic will not cause leaks.
I never said syn causes leaks. Read again in context. The mention of significant water contamination was in relation to having enough to worry about, that you have issues with cooler leaks, reversion, adding unusually high amounts of cooling water to your oil...salt water? how many years are we talking about that even 5% SW contaminated oil would rust out the corner of an oil pan? Reaching...
10-10-2006, 05:22 PM
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Re: 190 hrs on H.O. Change to synthetic?
Originally Posted by Rippem
right. how do you think the oil got to temp? What heats the oil? Friction! See why the H20 leaves above.
I never said syn causes leaks. Read again in context. The mention of significant water contamination was in relation to having enough to worry about, that you have issues with cooler leaks, reversion, adding unusually high amounts of cooling water to your oil...salt water? how many years are we talking about that even 5% SW contaminated oil would rust out the corner of an oil pan? Reaching...
I never said syn causes leaks. Read again in context. The mention of significant water contamination was in relation to having enough to worry about, that you have issues with cooler leaks, reversion, adding unusually high amounts of cooling water to your oil...salt water? how many years are we talking about that even 5% SW contaminated oil would rust out the corner of an oil pan? Reaching...
10-10-2006, 07:59 PM
#19
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Re: 190 hrs on H.O. Change to synthetic?
Originally Posted by ghittner
Sorry rippem, the leaks thing was not meant for you. But in answer to your question, I have seen a pan rusted through, Mine. After 6 years.
like the late model Ford truck oil pans rusing out in a couple years!
Sh!t steel in that case...
10-10-2006, 10:17 PM
#20
Re: 190 hrs on H.O. Change to synthetic?
Originally Posted by Wobble
Best of both worlds would be Mobil-1 v-twin 20/50 or similar 4cycle motorcycle oil. Oils intended for cars have had some of the wear additives reduced to comply with emission rules.
Expensive though
Expensive though
