Lofty

Let's do the math here;

Bravo conversion (single application):
Used Bravo, gimbal, inner transom $ 7,000.
Bravo bellhousing, coupler, coolers, etc. $ 1,000
Steering, engine mount and misc. rigging parts such as cables and hoses. $ 3,000

Plugging transom. $ 6,000 (approx.)
R&R Motor. $ 1,000
Relocate Engine and cut transom for Bravo. $ 4,000

Total parts and labor. $22,000

Konrad conversion.

Half Kit (drive only and this is perfect if your gimbal is in good shape) $11,000
Labor $200.
Total $11,200
Full Kit (drive gimbal, rams, etc) $14,000.
Labor $600
Total $ 14,600

I'm not the sharpest guy here so maybe you should check my math but I think the Konrad comes out cheaper. It's also a FAR better drive! It's not uncommon to go through multiple Bravos per season so you need to add in the cost of repairs or in many cases replacement of you Bravo every season.

Konrad has had NO failures to date! Brian Bunch (Fountain of youth P4-33) has over three seasons on the same set of drives with no failures. Find me a Bravo that can do that!

Pismo10

I guess you missed the do it yourself part.........

Your estimate numbers are ridiculously high, $6k to fill transom yourself, try $200 and some time. Relocate engine, $0, just time. $4k to cut a hole, please. I don't sell Konrads or Mercs so.........
I am sure Konrads are great and easy to install which is great but $$$.

Used Bravo $2-3k
Bravo TA $1-1.5k
Bell House $250
Coupler $250

Total $3.5-5k plus time, time, time. Less than half the Konrad price.

If you cant DIY then I agree go Konrads or a used TRS.


Buying a used TRS would be the cheapest.

jeff1000man

Don't forget that there is a stand off box that bolts to TRS and then put the bravo on. I have not done the math, but I know of a guy that did it and has had good results.

Lofty

Stelling mad a box, it is no longer available.

If you do it yourself then yes it may be cheaper but this kind of a project is WAY beyond the capabilities of most boaters. The glass work is not trivial nor is re-locating the engine in the correct position.

The hour involved are much greater than most people imagine. I can't tell you how many times I've heard a customer tell me how easy it is to "just" move the engine.....

jeff1000man

When did Stelling discontinue this? Doesn't Fred at Trick Marine still sell them?

I agree on the do it yourself. I would send it to someone else. There is nothing wrong with running a TRS. There are a lot of parts out there still in case you break one.

boatnuts

Just to get back on track & why I want the measurements. The boat I am refurbishing had twin 4 cyl. 190 HP Mercruisers. I know what the correct height for a TRS is for this specific boat. I have already bought a new engine that came with a Bravo 1 drive hence my desire to come up with a conversion "X" measurement.
If I can get these 2 measurements :

1. prop shaft center to cavitation plate
2. cavitation plate to input shaft center in upper gear housing

I will be able to figure out what I want to know.

Sorry if there was any confusion for my initial question.

jeff1000man

Can you get the template from Mercruser?

boatnuts

I don't need the template. All I need is the above dimensions from a TRS drive.

IRONMAN

1. Bravo dimension + 1"
2. Bravo dimension + 1"

However, due to better current propeller technology you should take advantage of the shorter drive and mount it at or within 1" of the recomended TRS location (about 1 " lower)

Pat McPherson

I agree with Ironman.
Most of conversions I know of, the engine crank centerline to the bottom (X dimension) is left the same or increased 1".
The Bravo drive is approximately 1" shorter.