Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > General Q & A
Oil line size.........Help >

Oil line size.........Help

Notices

Oil line size.........Help

Thread Tools
 
Old 05-31-2007, 01:48 AM
  #61  
Masher touches my
Gold Member
Thread Starter
 
Outdrive1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Phoenix, Az
Posts: 2,280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Oh it's coming Smitty.
Outdrive1 is offline  
Old 06-01-2007, 09:23 AM
  #62  
Registered
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Lake Conroe, TX.
Posts: 14,914
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Mr Gadgets
" I found some new roller lifters the other day at a dragster shop that had no needle bearings?? They are supposed to be bulet proof. If I build a roller motor in the near future, I will probably give them an experiment. "

Were they Joe Schubeck lifters by any chance? I am running Schubeck Roller X lifters. So far they have lived..

This guy that built your motor BadK.. needs to be taught a lesson!! Hate to hear this type of story.. good luck with it..
THey are make by Isky. Not sure of the spelling.
jeff1000man is offline  
Old 06-01-2007, 09:25 AM
  #63  
Registered
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Lake Conroe, TX.
Posts: 14,914
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by BillK
Bad,

It sounds like you found the cause in the valve springs. They were probably binding up solid and that is what killed the lifters and the rockers

As far as the stud girdles go, I have only seen one set like that, but I did not think it was even possible to put a set on wrong on a big block because of the valve angles. Of course I have never tried it but I guess a big enough hammer would make it work !

It absolutely amazes me how much of this type of stuff goes on. Especially in this day and age where there is more than enough information available for any decent engine builder to build almost any engine and not have problems. You would not beleive how much of this type of stuff I fix at my shop. It really hurts because it hurts the reputation of all engine builders and machine shops

I am going to repeat what I just said in another post too:

I know a lot of guys will say this is not neccessary but .... what I tell my customers is to run the boat for at least an hour or so very easy. Keep the rpms down, maybe to 3000 or so with a lot of varying rpms. Then change the oil, cut open the filter and look for any problems. Only after you have done that should you go out and hammer it. Unless the engine is broken in on a dyno I personally feel it is best to run it real easy for as long as you can stand it. Just go putt around the river for an hour or so, it will be the best leasure hour you can spend. Then change the oil and filter.

A marine engine is constantly loaded to full power. A good comparison is to hook your trailer up to your truck, find a fairly steep hill that never ends and put your foot to the floor for miles at a time. I dont think any of us would dream of doing that to a brand new truck .... why do it to your new boat engine. The longer you can take it easy on a new engine, the longer it will last.

Just my opinion,

Hope the new engine lasts a long time !!!!

Bill

How you treat a young engine dictates how it will act when it is old.
jeff1000man is offline  
Old 06-01-2007, 10:01 AM
  #64  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,777
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Wink

Bad:

Sorry for your dilema and troubles, boating is suppossed to be fun and this is definitly not!
We can all pretty much tell by actions and descriptions that this guy is a real "Hack" enough said on that subject.
Over the last several years I keep reading about and hearing these stories of so called "knowledgeable marine performance engine builders". The real moral of this story for other OSO'ers is that when it comes time for a marine high performance engine rebuild use one of the reputable, knowledgeable, proven engine builders such as Gellner, Crockett, Chief, Pfaff, Mercury,Peto, Baker, Teague, JC, etc., etc., all OSO'ers now the "Good List" and stay away from these backyard "Hacks" that create such misery.
As for suing the guy, good luck, its probably going to be like getting blood out of a turnup!
This is a overpriced lesson that no boater needs to learn. Don't buy your motors "Twice"!

Sorry again that you have to be a lesson sadly learned.
Keep your spirits up though, with good help you will get that great looking rig back together properly and runnin just fine!

Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Last edited by Raylar; 06-01-2007 at 10:09 PM. Reason: spelling
Raylar is offline  
Old 06-06-2007, 02:13 PM
  #65  
SB
Registered
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On A Dirt Floor
Posts: 13,697
Received 3,277 Likes on 1,467 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by BADKACHINA
Like I said before the stud girdles were on backwards and had to be pried off with a pry bar and hammer. The new builder had never seen them on like this and had no idea how they got them on in the first place. I couldn't tell you if they were or not so here's a pic. Anyone know if these are right?
Those look like Dart stud girdles. If they are, then there is a decent chance they will not fit correctly on the AFR's . They are made specifically for the Dart's by Dart.

This will have to be looked into before re-assembly of course.
SB is offline  
Old 06-07-2007, 05:56 AM
  #66  
Registered
 
Big Block Billy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Babylon N.Y.
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Post

Originally Posted by SB
Those look like Dart stud girdles. If they are, then there is a decent chance they will not fit correctly on the AFR's . They are made specifically for the Dart's by Dart.

This will have to be looked into before re-assembly of course.
Dart canted the valves an extra two degrees to improve flow. This also resulted in custom guidplates when using dart heads. I believe they have them now , but used to have to use comp cams adjustable ones or cut and weld. BBB
Big Block Billy is offline  
Old 06-20-2007, 10:31 AM
  #67  
Masher touches my
Gold Member
Thread Starter
 
Outdrive1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Phoenix, Az
Posts: 2,280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I finally have somewhat of an answer. Of course there could be numerous reasons why the bottom end of this motor came apart, and with the damage so extensive there is probably no way to know for sure. What I do know however is that we sent the cam back to see if Comp would warranty it and they denied the claim because of "excessive spring pressure and or coil bind."

They put it in writing, so I now know that for what ever reason the motor died, it was doomed from the get go and would have died regardless because the valve train was not set up properly.

This motor was set up and built by Tim at Tuf-Enuf. The same idiot who is all over HotBoat posting about building motors and putting solid roller lifters on hydraulic cams. He has a dirty dog hair filled "shop" in his back yard. He has no dyno, and of course no warranty on his work what so ever. Whit all his great knowledge, and 10 months worth of work this wonderful blower motor he built was able to last one whole trip to the lake.

After the trip, and after the horrible rod knock, he "adjusted the valves" and sent us on our way again.

This guy is a shady as is gets, after having this happen, I've found quite a few other poeple he done similar things to.

I'm starting to think this may be the first high hp marine blower motor he's built. I can't find anyone else with a similar set up, and I know most of the Hotboat community or their boats (at least by reputation) in the area. I know the motor in Tim's boat was built by AZ Speed and Marine. Of course he'll tell you how bad they screwed it up and how he had to fix it, but it's still alive.............That's better than the motor he built.
Outdrive1 is offline  
Old 06-20-2007, 10:32 AM
  #68  
Masher touches my
Gold Member
Thread Starter
 
Outdrive1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Phoenix, Az
Posts: 2,280
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SB
Those look like Dart stud girdles. If they are, then there is a decent chance they will not fit correctly on the AFR's . They are made specifically for the Dart's by Dart.

This will have to be looked into before re-assembly of course.
That would make sense as to why they were almost impossible to get off.
Outdrive1 is offline  
Old 06-20-2007, 11:32 AM
  #69  
Registered
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Lake Conroe, TX.
Posts: 14,914
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

What were the specs on that cam you installed? I just want to know for comparison on some engines I am building right now.

If it was off the shelf, maybe the part number.
jeff1000man is offline  
Old 06-21-2007, 09:21 PM
  #70  
Registered
 
FOUNTAINATLAST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Sunny, AZ
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Porting a set of AFR heads and coil bind sounds like a good builder!!??
FOUNTAINATLAST is offline  


Quick Reply: Oil line size.........Help


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.