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engine builders, where's my oil pres. going????

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Old 06-11-2007, 03:06 PM
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o.k. guys heres the skinny on the clearances i've miced everything to death and used plasty gauge to back me up and everything comes thru at .003 so i got a set of exact replacement bearings comin in so i can put that back together and then look further for a possible leak. but its makin me think i found it in the oil pump!!
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Old 06-11-2007, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BillK
Paul,
Take the cover off the pump and see if the relief valve is stuck open. That would be the first thing I would do. If you dont see anything obvious, once you get it back together, but before you put the pan on, put a distributor in to seal the oil passages, then try blowing some air into the oil pressure sending hole in the block and see if you can tell if there is any real big leaks. I have gone as far as suspending the pan down a few inches on all thread and filling it up to the top with oil and running the pump with a preoiler. I found a rear cam bearing that had not been installed all the way using this method.

By the way, ther really should not be any "blue" ! The color blue means that something has been too hot for some reason.

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
Before i got to the end of this thread i had a feeling you were right, had this happen and scared the crap out of me...............

This is why i run this pump now,,,,,,,,Bad ass pump
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Old 06-13-2007, 05:44 PM
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well after putting the lower end back together i tryed blowing thru the system with about 60psi and i don't here any large leaks. but i did notice .020-.026 clearances between the rods, is that alot??? also can someone tell me the torque specs on the 4 bolt mains and the arp bolts in the h-beam rods?? the mains look like 1/2 inch bolts that appear to be stock
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Old 06-13-2007, 08:20 PM
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Paul,
The rod side clearance is a little big, but normal for aftermarket rods, they seem to make them a little thinner than stock rods. That normally does not affect oil pressure very much, if at all.

As far as the torque spec goes, you need to call the connecting rod manufacturer. Different rods use different torque specs for what appear to be identical bolts. Most ARP bolts in aftermarket rods will also have the manufacturers name on them. Eagle's will say somthing like "ARP Eagle 8740" etc. ARP will not tell you a spec, they will tell you to call the rod manufacturer. MOST ARP bolt torque specs will be with ARP's moly lubricant. If you only use oil, you normally have to increase the torque. Once again ... call the rod manufacturer.

The only main bolt torque I have available here at home is for the 600SC ... it is 110 lbft

Hope this helps,

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
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Old 06-14-2007, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by BillK
ARP will not tell you a spec, they will tell you to call the rod manufacturer. MOST ARP bolt torque specs will be with ARP's moly lubricant. If you only use oil, you normally have to increase the torque. Once again ... call the rod manufacturer.
General Replacement at the bottom of the page shows the torque and stretch of different ARP rod bolts.

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechTorque.html

You can probably find your arp bolts at Summit or similar to get the part#.

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Old 06-14-2007, 06:39 AM
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Did you verify this pressure with a mechanical guuage,,or were you just going off the dash?
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Old 06-14-2007, 08:25 AM
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i was just going off the dash but because the presure was 25-30 when cold then 0 hot i figured i could trust there was a problem
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