jeff1000man

I have the marine MSD distributors. THey advance 4 degrees at around 4500-5000 rpms acording to my light. My engines make their best top end power at 32 degrees. That means I have them set at 28 at 2000. THis is the lowest I can get a good reading.

People have said that I should take the advance springs out of the distributors and lock it in at 32 degrees.

Please, those of you who hate the MSD set up, don't chime in unless you can help with the situation. I have these and I am going to use them because I loaned out one of my TB-iv's.

I am trying to get the best set up with the MSD's
Thanks,

jeff1000man

Oh and does anyone have a schematic on how to take the springs out if that is the way I decide to go?

jdnca1

Lock them and be done with it. Start better, idle better, and run better with never any maintenance issues... and ignore the calls that its too hard on the starter...45 degrees well maybe but not 32, have been locking in stuff for yrs and have never had any starter problems. Its easy to lock out...can do in about 2 mins... Here is link.... see page 4 bottom....

http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8360_frm%2023793.pdf

jeff1000man

That's what I have been hearing. The diagram does not say if I can accomplish this without actually pulling the distributor out.

jdnca1

You have to pull it out because you have to drive the roll pin out of the gear so the whole assembly can lift up a couple of inches and be rotated around 180 degrees....no biggie, but it must come out....

Wally

Ive never had any problems with the springs on my MSD systems...had them in my old K5 blazer w/383 and had them in my old scarabII w/454's
It takes a little playing with but once you get the right spring combo in and maybe even change the bushings it runs like a top

jeff1000man

After discussing with some other guys on the phone and reading literature. I need to run the black bushings 18 degrees. THe biggest ones. And the lightest springs so that I am at full advance at around 15-1600 rpms.

Big Block Billy

Take a close look at the counter weight assembly and it's weak spotwelds. You may consider welding or brazing them to keep things together. If you don't you may be sorry.
I've been there, BBB

jdnca1

Why do they and you feel it needs a curve in it? If you want full advance by 1500 then why bother putting a curve in it ....you are not going to hurt your starter...Full advance= start better, idle better. Nothing to play with or ever worry about....keep it simple.

jeff1000man

I keep hearing that. Don't you get a stronger idle, better manuvering at the docks, with less timing advance down low?