Idle control - Big cams and carbs
08-22-2007, 10:32 AM
#12
Registered
He will only make them for his specific engines.
I would like to try fabricating these myself.
It is a solenoid like the ones used on fords to kick the linkage
up a little.
This theory combined with a momentary actuation device.
Maybe a time delay relay wired into the neutral safety switch
would work.
If Im not mistaken I have seen the brackets and solenoids in Summit or jegs catologs.
Last edited by KNOT-RIGHT; 08-22-2007 at 10:34 AM.
08-22-2007, 10:49 AM
#13
Registered
Yep here it is Solenoid anyway.
In Jegs catolog Edelbrock part# 350-8059.
Says its for edelbrock series carbs.
There is all kinds of stuff that may work on page 88
of jegs catolog with the red chevy on cover.
In Jegs catolog Edelbrock part# 350-8059.
Says its for edelbrock series carbs.
There is all kinds of stuff that may work on page 88
of jegs catolog with the red chevy on cover.
Gold Member
08-22-2007, 11:30 AM
#15
Platinum Member
Platinum MemberThread Starter
Knot,
I am interested in anything that works. The auto timing advance electronic RPM solution seems to me to be an easier path. Less rigging, etc.
Does anybody have a connection/contact at MSD? There should be a good marine after market opportunity for a box that would could be programed to hold a steady RPM between 600-800 RPM and then disengage.
I am interested in anything that works. The auto timing advance electronic RPM solution seems to me to be an easier path. Less rigging, etc.
Does anybody have a connection/contact at MSD? There should be a good marine after market opportunity for a box that would could be programed to hold a steady RPM between 600-800 RPM and then disengage.
Charter Member
08-22-2007, 02:41 PM
#18
Registered
Knot,
I am interested in anything that works. The auto timing advance electronic RPM solution seems to me to be an easier path. Less rigging, etc.
Does anybody have a connection/contact at MSD? There should be a good marine after market opportunity for a box that would could be programed to hold a steady RPM between 600-800 RPM and then disengage.
I am interested in anything that works. The auto timing advance electronic RPM solution seems to me to be an easier path. Less rigging, etc.
Does anybody have a connection/contact at MSD? There should be a good marine after market opportunity for a box that would could be programed to hold a steady RPM between 600-800 RPM and then disengage.
I cannot figure out how you could keep the engine
from not stalling using the ignition timing.
Retarding the timing will lower the idle rpm.
Advancing will increase it.
So are you suggesting a device that would lets say
when thrown in gear would increase timing from lets say
28 degrees to 38 then dwell for a few seconds then return to 28?
I really am interested in a way to improve docking as well.
I have come to the end of my leash with
King demons on top of a 46%overdriven psi blower motor.
08-22-2007, 02:58 PM
#19
Platinum Member
Platinum MemberThread Starter
Knot,
When you drop to say less than 700 RPM's, the ignition box automatically advances the timing to keep the RPMs at the target RPM, say 750 RPM. When the RPM gets to maybe 850 RPM as you open the throttle, the advance feature stops and the timing returns to the normal setting. I am not an expert, but something very similar to this is how Mercury set up some ignitions....maybe they still do.
Hey Merc techs, how does this process exactly work?
When you drop to say less than 700 RPM's, the ignition box automatically advances the timing to keep the RPMs at the target RPM, say 750 RPM. When the RPM gets to maybe 850 RPM as you open the throttle, the advance feature stops and the timing returns to the normal setting. I am not an expert, but something very similar to this is how Mercury set up some ignitions....maybe they still do.
Hey Merc techs, how does this process exactly work?
08-22-2007, 10:56 PM
#20
I once used a Holley Strip Annihilator to control the RPM's coming out of gear... I routed the interupter switch to an input and programmed the box to hold the engine at 400rpm during interuption. It did so by cutting out spark to some of the cylinders (in a pattern). The interupter by itself was always killing the engine... this was a fix for me.
Maybe you could use the same theory? The difference would be that you want a lower RPM just before going into gear. After you're in gear it would go back to normal. Just throwing out ideas...
Maybe you could use the same theory? The difference would be that you want a lower RPM just before going into gear. After you're in gear it would go back to normal. Just throwing out ideas...
