Ethanol and winterization
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Ethanol and winterization
What is the consensus...store it w/ full tank or near empty? My tech says no more than 1/2 tank but I just read an article that says should store w/ 95% full. Also, what brand stabilizer is best? TIA.
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I store mine with only a few gallons in the tanks and then in the spring I siphon as much as I can before I pour fresh gas in. My boat is usually stored from late October through May. I'm sure that after that many months the octane rating has dropped significantly. The humidity in Colorado is generally pretty low so water contamination isn't to much of a concern, though it is stored indoors.
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Been using ethanol gas for years here in the Midwest. Top off the tank each fall (late Oct. to early Nov.), treat with the proper amount of Sta-Bil, and next spring (usually bust her out in late March to early April) she runs like a top. Never had a problem with E-10 drawing a bunch of moisture or dropping octane to the point where the motor knocks.
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The Boat U.S. magazine this month has an article on this which your probably referring to.I have been doing the 95% full of gas with MDR stabilizer and their water zorb for 10 years with zero fuel problems.The other option is getting 100% of the fuel out of the fuel system and the tank. The worst thing to do is leave a few gallons to a Quarter to a half full.The fuel tank breathes more and attracts larger amounts of moister. With enough condensation you will get phase separation which is highly corrosive ethanol/water mix which will settle to the bottom of your fuel tank and would stay their even after fresh fuel would be added in the spring.Once phase separation occurs additives and water sep filters can't help,the only solution is to have the gas/ethanol/water pumped from the tank.This information is from a senior engineering consultant at Chevron which contributed to the Boat U.S. article.
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Hey guys, thanks for the responses. As you can see, opinions vary b/n little fuel to full tank. I didn't think of it much until I read the Boat US article. What to do, what to do.....
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I had problems with Sta-Bil treated fuel, not only in the boats, but in all of my two-stroke equipment.
I've been using PRI-G for years now, and haven't had any problems with fuel storage since. It's a little higher in cost, but a pint treats 256 gallons, so it probably evens out in comparison.
I also know guys who swear by Seafoam as a storage additive, and the other one I've heard that has been quite good is made by Bombardier (the old OMC fuel stabilizer/storage additive).
I attended a fuel seminar last winter- (mostly on aviation fuels but a nice discussion on auto fuels as well), all the major companies were in attendance. They stated you can expect no more than a month out of today's auto fuel without some degradation- even less with ethanol added (as stated before, it's junk once it has separated). I am now adding PRI to ALL of my fuel- cars, trucks, boats, and equipment cans.
Jim
I've been using PRI-G for years now, and haven't had any problems with fuel storage since. It's a little higher in cost, but a pint treats 256 gallons, so it probably evens out in comparison.
I also know guys who swear by Seafoam as a storage additive, and the other one I've heard that has been quite good is made by Bombardier (the old OMC fuel stabilizer/storage additive).
I attended a fuel seminar last winter- (mostly on aviation fuels but a nice discussion on auto fuels as well), all the major companies were in attendance. They stated you can expect no more than a month out of today's auto fuel without some degradation- even less with ethanol added (as stated before, it's junk once it has separated). I am now adding PRI to ALL of my fuel- cars, trucks, boats, and equipment cans.
Jim
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How would one go about pumping out every last bit of fuel for the winter........I would think there will always be something left in the tank and in the fuel system.........I am extra nervousbecause I run twin Merc 575 SCI'S which require a minimum of 93 octane...............What to do......What to do.....