Questions for Whipple guys!
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Questions for Whipple guys!
I have an older side mount Whipple on a 454mag. I took the boat out this weekend (first time) and ran it about 15 miles to get dinner. The boat cruises about 50mph at 3200 rpm, no problem whatsoever.
On the way back, I cranked it up to about 3800 and after about 10 minutes at this speed, I started to notice a little detonation. I looked down at the temp gauge and it had risen from 130 to 160 degf. I backed the throttle down to 3000 and it was still rattling and getting worse. I pulled it back to 2500 where the pinging got better and eventually went away and the temp dropped back down to 130 and everything was fine. I checked the intercooler discharge and it is moving plenty of water. This particular unit has the aux fueler (2 injectors and a Whipple computer spliced in). I am beginning to think the injectors are not spraying (fuel pump runs). Does anyone have a manual on this system that has system tests to determine if it is functional?? Tech support from Whipple is non existant by phone or email!
On the way back, I cranked it up to about 3800 and after about 10 minutes at this speed, I started to notice a little detonation. I looked down at the temp gauge and it had risen from 130 to 160 degf. I backed the throttle down to 3000 and it was still rattling and getting worse. I pulled it back to 2500 where the pinging got better and eventually went away and the temp dropped back down to 130 and everything was fine. I checked the intercooler discharge and it is moving plenty of water. This particular unit has the aux fueler (2 injectors and a Whipple computer spliced in). I am beginning to think the injectors are not spraying (fuel pump runs). Does anyone have a manual on this system that has system tests to determine if it is functional?? Tech support from Whipple is non existant by phone or email!
#2
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Does your system have the Whipple "check light". Also you can test the injectors with an ohm meter. I do not know what the reading should be though. Keep trying to call Whipple. They are there. I also have 4 injectors from that setup for sale. PM me for more info.
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I have an older side mount Whipple on a 454mag. I took the boat out this weekend (first time) and ran it about 15 miles to get dinner. The boat cruises about 50mph at 3200 rpm, no problem whatsoever.
On the way back, I cranked it up to about 3800 and after about 10 minutes at this speed, I started to notice a little detonation. I looked down at the temp gauge and it had risen from 130 to 160 degf. I backed the throttle down to 3000 and it was still rattling and getting worse. I pulled it back to 2500 where the pinging got better and eventually went away and the temp dropped back down to 130 and everything was fine. I checked the intercooler discharge and it is moving plenty of water. This particular unit has the aux fueler (2 injectors and a Whipple computer spliced in). I am beginning to think the injectors are not spraying (fuel pump runs). Does anyone have a manual on this system that has system tests to determine if it is functional?? Tech support from Whipple is non existant by phone or email!
On the way back, I cranked it up to about 3800 and after about 10 minutes at this speed, I started to notice a little detonation. I looked down at the temp gauge and it had risen from 130 to 160 degf. I backed the throttle down to 3000 and it was still rattling and getting worse. I pulled it back to 2500 where the pinging got better and eventually went away and the temp dropped back down to 130 and everything was fine. I checked the intercooler discharge and it is moving plenty of water. This particular unit has the aux fueler (2 injectors and a Whipple computer spliced in). I am beginning to think the injectors are not spraying (fuel pump runs). Does anyone have a manual on this system that has system tests to determine if it is functional?? Tech support from Whipple is non existant by phone or email!
To test injectors, rev motor to 3000rpm, in neutral, use a hand pump to simulate 3-6psi into the aux. ECM. If injectors are working, it will flood motor until you remove simulated boost. For the motor to detonate at mid throttle, mid rpm, which I would have to assume is mid to low boost, means it's probably got some other issue with the ignition system, probably a bad distributor. Motor should be able to run at 4000 and below and stock fuel system.
You can first start with fuel psi, should be 36-38 on the aux. side. If thats ok, test the fuel injectors.
To test stock system, check fuel psi first, if it's cool fuel, then psi should be 45-48psi @ wot (vacuum/boost referenced), this is approx. 43psi with zero vacuum/boost, then you'll need to have injectors flowed.
If fuel system checks out fine, you have a bad spark plug, plug wire, distributor, etc. More thank likely, distributor.
This is all assuming motor is 100% stock, and calibration is a stock Whipple cal. If it's custom, then you need to talk to whoever did custom tune. To also note, 130 is somewhat high. These systems were intended to run 90-110 deg F. The difference between 100 and 160 deg's is over 4 deg's timing (before detonation).
Thank you,
Non-exsistent technical service
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To test injectors, rev motor to 3000rpm, in neutral, use a hand pump to simulate 3-6psi into the aux. ECM. If injectors are working, it will flood motor until you remove simulated boost. For the motor to detonate at mid throttle, mid rpm, which I would have to assume is mid to low boost, means it's probably got some other issue with the ignition system, probably a bad distributor. Motor should be able to run at 4000 and below and stock fuel system.
You can first start with fuel psi, should be 36-38 on the aux. side. If thats ok, test the fuel injectors.
To test stock system, check fuel psi first, if it's cool fuel, then psi should be 45-48psi @ wot (vacuum/boost referenced), this is approx. 43psi with zero vacuum/boost, then you'll need to have injectors flowed.
If fuel system checks out fine, you have a bad spark plug, plug wire, distributor, etc. More thank likely, distributor.
This is all assuming motor is 100% stock, and calibration is a stock Whipple cal. If it's custom, then you need to talk to whoever did custom tune. To also note, 130 is somewhat high. These systems were intended to run 90-110 deg F. The difference between 100 and 160 deg's is over 4 deg's timing (before detonation).
Thank you,
Non-exsistent technical service
You can first start with fuel psi, should be 36-38 on the aux. side. If thats ok, test the fuel injectors.
To test stock system, check fuel psi first, if it's cool fuel, then psi should be 45-48psi @ wot (vacuum/boost referenced), this is approx. 43psi with zero vacuum/boost, then you'll need to have injectors flowed.
If fuel system checks out fine, you have a bad spark plug, plug wire, distributor, etc. More thank likely, distributor.
This is all assuming motor is 100% stock, and calibration is a stock Whipple cal. If it's custom, then you need to talk to whoever did custom tune. To also note, 130 is somewhat high. These systems were intended to run 90-110 deg F. The difference between 100 and 160 deg's is over 4 deg's timing (before detonation).
Thank you,
Non-exsistent technical service
thank you very much for the response, I will PM you with my results. Not trying to be a smartass, just trying to get some help before I gut the whole electronics system and install a F.A.S.T XFI or a BS3 because that is what I know! I am willing to bet the injectors are bad or stuck( lack of use) but at least now I have some direction as to how the system works.
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thank you very much for the response, I will PM you with my results. Not trying to be a smartass, just trying to get some help before I gut the whole electronics system and install a F.A.S.T XFI or a BS3 because that is what I know! I am willing to bet the injectors are bad or stuck( lack of use) but at least now I have some direction as to how the system works.
Dustin
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Engine is stock, ECM is stock, has Whipple computer spliced in.I tested the system out today, both injectors are definately working. Hold it at 3k and regulate 7psi to the Whipple box and it drags the rpms down to a rough 1800 or so, unplug one and it will rise to 2700, unplug both, it's back up to 3k.
What is next? I am not sure how it can be the distributor since it will run well for a good amount of time and then it started detonating until I backed it way down. HELP!?
What is next? I am not sure how it can be the distributor since it will run well for a good amount of time and then it started detonating until I backed it way down. HELP!?
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Bill,
Does this have 4 lights or 2? Some of these systems had fuel psi sensors and EGT's. Red light was for low fuel psi, but some disconnected because it would flash every once in awhile (fuel psi can spike up and down).
What is stock fuel psi? idle and 3800?
What is aux. fuel psi? Idle and 3800?
What year motor, what stock fuel system? Cool fuel system or VST? 98+ have cool fuel, 93-97 had Vapor Seperator Tank.
What is base timing set at? Rev motor to 1500, put in base timing mode (jump pins A and B in DTC 10 pin connector). Should be 8 deg's.
What is the boost or vacuum @ 3000, @ 3800rpm?
Do you have a merc scan tool? If so, how much timing is it pulling out? (parameter = knock retard). How much is it commanding (parameter = spark advance).
You mentioned before that the motor gets hot. 130 is too hot, 160 is far too hot. It may need less timing in that given area which we could do through the ECM (stock). What is the water block psi? Of course, at part throttle, the motor is far less likely to have problems vs. WOT so 130 should be fine @ 3800rpm. 454mag was sensitive to timing/temp near peak torque range 3800-4000rpm.
Pull the spark plugs right after you hear it detonating. Which cylinder is it, if it's that bad, you should be able to see peppering on plug or plugs. It's very possible stock injector is bad. I've seen them flow the proper amount, but lose their spray pattern, which does not allow the cylinder to fire it properly.
Overall, I would recommend checking fuel psi, boost, water psi and base timing. From there, we have to find out what calibration is in the stock ECM. It may need to be updated. I would also recommend replacing sea pump housing and impeller, back flushing water system, removing factory water neck to see what thermostat, if any is in there because 130 is too hot with this system.
Dustin
Does this have 4 lights or 2? Some of these systems had fuel psi sensors and EGT's. Red light was for low fuel psi, but some disconnected because it would flash every once in awhile (fuel psi can spike up and down).
What is stock fuel psi? idle and 3800?
What is aux. fuel psi? Idle and 3800?
What year motor, what stock fuel system? Cool fuel system or VST? 98+ have cool fuel, 93-97 had Vapor Seperator Tank.
What is base timing set at? Rev motor to 1500, put in base timing mode (jump pins A and B in DTC 10 pin connector). Should be 8 deg's.
What is the boost or vacuum @ 3000, @ 3800rpm?
Do you have a merc scan tool? If so, how much timing is it pulling out? (parameter = knock retard). How much is it commanding (parameter = spark advance).
You mentioned before that the motor gets hot. 130 is too hot, 160 is far too hot. It may need less timing in that given area which we could do through the ECM (stock). What is the water block psi? Of course, at part throttle, the motor is far less likely to have problems vs. WOT so 130 should be fine @ 3800rpm. 454mag was sensitive to timing/temp near peak torque range 3800-4000rpm.
Pull the spark plugs right after you hear it detonating. Which cylinder is it, if it's that bad, you should be able to see peppering on plug or plugs. It's very possible stock injector is bad. I've seen them flow the proper amount, but lose their spray pattern, which does not allow the cylinder to fire it properly.
Overall, I would recommend checking fuel psi, boost, water psi and base timing. From there, we have to find out what calibration is in the stock ECM. It may need to be updated. I would also recommend replacing sea pump housing and impeller, back flushing water system, removing factory water neck to see what thermostat, if any is in there because 130 is too hot with this system.
Dustin
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Dustin,
I got your email. I plan to dump this thing in this weekend and run these tests. I dont have a marine scan tool but I will check with my Snap On guy to see if there is an adapter available for my automotive scanner.
Kick me square in the ass for the tech support comment!!!!
Thank you very much.
in the meantime...
-I only have one orange LED on the dash (I think it is labled Whipple alert)
-Will report back will fuel pressures
-Stock Cool Fuel system, engine is a Reman 1999
-will check base timing
-I have to check block pressure, my gauge doesnt work
-I will read the plugs, it's not just one cyl, this thing is rattling like 6 cyl f150 towing a 30,000 pound trailer up a mountain on 87 octane! I have no problems changing the injectors, I have plenty in stock at my shop from 43.5 all the way up to 160 pph
-There is no thermostat in the engine, it may have heated up BECAUSE it was detonating, I didnt notice the temps until it started raising hell.
Thanks once again.
I got your email. I plan to dump this thing in this weekend and run these tests. I dont have a marine scan tool but I will check with my Snap On guy to see if there is an adapter available for my automotive scanner.
Kick me square in the ass for the tech support comment!!!!
Thank you very much.
in the meantime...
-I only have one orange LED on the dash (I think it is labled Whipple alert)
-Will report back will fuel pressures
-Stock Cool Fuel system, engine is a Reman 1999
-will check base timing
-I have to check block pressure, my gauge doesnt work
-I will read the plugs, it's not just one cyl, this thing is rattling like 6 cyl f150 towing a 30,000 pound trailer up a mountain on 87 octane! I have no problems changing the injectors, I have plenty in stock at my shop from 43.5 all the way up to 160 pph
-There is no thermostat in the engine, it may have heated up BECAUSE it was detonating, I didnt notice the temps until it started raising hell.
Thanks once again.
Last edited by EightSecv6; 09-27-2007 at 07:58 AM.
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In the for what its worth column, I had a triple engine Black Thunder with Whipples (500 EFI) for about 4 years. I have rarely experienced a more professional, responsive company or people than Dustin, his Father and sister. They were always helpful, always patient, and totally dedicated to making their stuff work right. His e-mails back to the starter of this thread are further evidence of that commitmnet.
Steve David
Steve David