Loose bell housings
#11
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I 've tried loctite, helicoils, green loctite, The problem is the thread area is inadequate. New bellhousings seem to work best and assemble with green loctite. Make sure you don't have two tie bars working against each other. As that will eat the pin threads and swivel joints right up.
Jim
Jim
#12
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I 've tried loctite, helicoils, green loctite, The problem is the thread area is inadequate. New bellhousings seem to work best and assemble with green loctite. Make sure you don't have two tie bars working against each other. As that will eat the pin threads and swivel joints right up.
Jim
Jim
I have 2 tie bars,one out from drive to drive and one inside from tiller to tiller.
can you explain how the 2 work against each other??
thanks,Tom
#13
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Tom,
It a geometric problem. I'll try to explain. If the drives were to stay perfectly even trim wise there would not be a problem. Maybe an example will help best. If you trim one drive and not the other the outer tie bar pulls the drives together changing the toe setting out. The inner bar does not see the change in angle and tries to hold them in line. Some thing has to give and the swivels and pivots end up giving way.
The proper way to have two tie bars is to have an inside bar end slotted to allow for the misalignment. I hope this helps.
Jim
It a geometric problem. I'll try to explain. If the drives were to stay perfectly even trim wise there would not be a problem. Maybe an example will help best. If you trim one drive and not the other the outer tie bar pulls the drives together changing the toe setting out. The inner bar does not see the change in angle and tries to hold them in line. Some thing has to give and the swivels and pivots end up giving way.
The proper way to have two tie bars is to have an inside bar end slotted to allow for the misalignment. I hope this helps.
Jim
#14
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Thanks Jim
Maybe thats why my inside tie bar is 2 piece and slotted
Maybe thats why my inside tie bar is 2 piece and slotted