Griff

Like was said, the cam is pretty agressive for a 454. It is probably reverting some water at idle. Keeping the rpms up will help avoid it.

What is your current rpm at idle in nuetral and when put into gear???

I'm guessing you will pick up 100-200 rpms with them. They will probably also lean out the fuel mixture. You may need to jet the carbs up a couple sizes. It will depend on how well tuned they were before. You probably want to spin it to at least 5500rpms to make max power.

You can easily still adjust the valves with the intake on. Its just easier to be able to see and feel the 0 lash. Now you'll be going just by feel. I always just do 3/4 of a turn after 0 lash and it will give about .040, right in the middle of the .020-.060 requirement.

I had my own fun tonight working on the wifes car. Had to put on a new idler arm. Pain in the a$$ getting of 9 year old rusted nuts. Good thing for an impact, pb blaster, and a heated garage.

Griff

Another thing, you may need to pull your head bolts(one at a time) and put some sealer on them on the engine you had the heads off of. The bolts go into water jackets on some Gen BBC's and water can leak past them without sealer.

alamo28

OK I will do that buy the ones that came out didnt have sealer on them but I guess it wont hurt to put some RTV on them and reinstall one at a time. I was puking all day and did not get a chance to work on the boat today. I am going to try to get the valves done tomorrow and I will let you know how it went. As far as converting my pipes to dry exhaust I cant do it can I ? I will have to order new pipes from Stainless marine that go all the way through the transom. Am I correct, I think I have some high performance knowledge. Still waiting for your address!

blue thunder

I have KE headers and had reversion with less cam than you. I was able to make inserts to covert my tailpipes to pretty much dry. It solved the milky oil problem. I'm not sure what your tailpipes look like so I don't know if you can do it yourself or need new. The pcv and higher idling helped until I could figure this out. PCV valve goes in your valve cover and is connected to a vacuum source at the carb. I agree about getting the other engine squared away before worrying about any of this so I will shut up now.

BT

formula31

Hi guys, dont mean to jump in on your thread but I am concerned that you all think that cam is too much for this engine and exhaust. If I read his timing numbers correctly and they are at .004, then he has 64 degrees of overlap. I have been running 75 degrees with a worse exhaust situation for years and have actuall been looking at the cam alamo is using myself. Heres one of my old threads where this was discussed and explained to me how the roller cam with more duration and lift actually would have less overlap than the flat tappet cam. If Im wrong, please have at me so I dont get into trouble too. Im about to put the 139011 cams in or something close to that.

http://www.speedwake.com/upload/show...e&pagenumber=3

blue thunder

Holy shiot, its F31, how you been bro? You are right, my references are to flat tappet cams. I generally assume that given 454mag. I do know it doesn't take much cam to revert water when the water mixes (bravo) 8" from the transom. The hp500 (59* overlap) had issues and it was similar cam, less cubes. I was just concerned about the rust on valves comment. I grenaded too many engines with reversion and non inconnel.

BT

alamo28

Hey Guys,

No need for anybody to shut up ever. I appreciate all of the input from everybody. It is now midnight of friday night and I am just starting to feel semi well enough to give the rockers a go. Everybody here rules and I was wondering if this site has any kind of a get together or poker run so people can meet eachother. Tomorrow morning I am going to tackle the other engine and hopefully I can give another great post. I know if it does not work than it is 100% my fault.


Here is something funny that you will get a kick out of. I was at my marina the other day before I got sick and saw a young kid with a lot of daddys money working on his boat on the work rack. He has the same boat as I do but with 100% stock power. Somebody had told him that the teeth on his distributor were ground down and that was why the engines would not start. This poor guy tried everything. When I looked under the hatch I saw that he had removed both distributors and was cranking the engines without the distributor in at all. I times up his engines and they fired right up. This guy was calling me the boat tech sent down from God! I wanted to take credit but I could not do it. I explained to him how all of you guys helped me and he immediately signed up to be a member of this site. I know most if not all are saying "big deal" but for me it is a big deal. I really enjoy helping people out and in this case I was able to help him and get him back on the water. One of the reasons that I helped him was because his HOT HOT HOT HHHHHHHHHOTTTTTTTTTT girlfriend was helping me out while he had to run home for something. She had no problem bending over to pick up the sockets that kept on falling on to the deck. I hate it when that happens.

offthefront

This is not true ...

blue thunder

That's how it work alamo. We keep passing it on. It is always a great feeling when you can help someone out.
My project this winter is blowers on the old scarab. Unfortunatley they don't seem to fit under the hatch. I was lucky enough to find a hatch on ebay that looks like it will work. Its off a 31' scarab. I never heard of that. You got any pics of your hatch area alamo?

BT

alamo28

Yes I have pics. Give me your email and I will pass the pics on. I just took the hatch pad off due to some wet wood but the pics should help you.