502 replacement heads
#1
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I am looking for an aftermarket direct replacement for my factory heads. My block is 1999 so I assume it is Gen VI. The casting numbers on the heads make me think that they are Gen V (does it sound right that they are mix/matched?).
The motor is a Whipplecharged 502, otherwise stock. I dont want anything that would make me change my cam or reprogram my ECU. I have not decided whether or not to go cast iron or aluminum.
Any recommendations? Thanks in advance.
The motor is a Whipplecharged 502, otherwise stock. I dont want anything that would make me change my cam or reprogram my ECU. I have not decided whether or not to go cast iron or aluminum.
Any recommendations? Thanks in advance.
#3
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Gen V and VI use the same heads. No difference.
You can not change the heads to an aftermarket head and not change the ECM. The only head you can use and not have to do some programming is the same stock head you have. Hope this helps, Eddie.
You can not change the heads to an aftermarket head and not change the ECM. The only head you can use and not have to do some programming is the same stock head you have. Hope this helps, Eddie.
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I've been chasing a milkshake oil problem for a long time. Right now, I am in "replace parts until the problem goes away" mode. I think the heads are next.
Reprogramming the ECU isn't out of the question. I don't want to get into the cam though. What would your recommendation for an aftermarket head be if I were to reprogram the ECU?
Reprogramming the ECU isn't out of the question. I don't want to get into the cam though. What would your recommendation for an aftermarket head be if I were to reprogram the ECU?
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If you are going to buy a set of heads, then you are going to have to replace most of the hardware in them. Aftermarket heads take different size and length valves, different springs and spring cups, different head bolts etc.You should just buy the aluminum heads now since almost everything else needs to be replaced. You will still need to buy all the same parts with a set of cast iron heads, so the only additional money is the price difference between cast iron and aluminum. You will certainly benefit more from the aluminum heads on your supercharged engine. Any quality head will work fine.(Dart Pro 1, Brodix,etc)
Eddie
Eddie
Last edited by Young Performance; 01-13-2008 at 12:40 AM.
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Thanks to all for the input on this so far.
I have replaced the oil cooler, riser gaskets (several times), intake manifold, intake gaskets (several times). Every time I pull the top end apart, there is evidence (not conclusive, of course) that water is seeping past the intake. This latest time, I noticed that the intake gasket adhered very well to the center part of the intake manifold (hard to scrape off) but easily fell away from the areas around the water ports. I have been over the surface of the heads with a precision flat bar and cannot find any flatness issues in either the intake manifold of heads. The only thing I can think of is a problem in the angle of the mating surfaces between the intake and heads.
So...here I am seeking knowledge about new heads. I figure that if I throw enough money at the problem, it will go away. On the positive note, I will come away with a better flowing top end.
Summer approaches.
I have replaced the oil cooler, riser gaskets (several times), intake manifold, intake gaskets (several times). Every time I pull the top end apart, there is evidence (not conclusive, of course) that water is seeping past the intake. This latest time, I noticed that the intake gasket adhered very well to the center part of the intake manifold (hard to scrape off) but easily fell away from the areas around the water ports. I have been over the surface of the heads with a precision flat bar and cannot find any flatness issues in either the intake manifold of heads. The only thing I can think of is a problem in the angle of the mating surfaces between the intake and heads.
So...here I am seeking knowledge about new heads. I figure that if I throw enough money at the problem, it will go away. On the positive note, I will come away with a better flowing top end.
Summer approaches.
#10
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From everything I've read, AFR 305 ($2k) or 315's ($3k) are hard to beat. They might cause you some additional work to install, but will flow much better than stock.
If I were you and going to buy new heads, may as well get a great set.
Canfield 310's get good reviews also.
If I were you and going to buy new heads, may as well get a great set.
Canfield 310's get good reviews also.