MK IV timing cover change require dropping oil pan?
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Just dreaming of an in-boat cam change and wondering if I really have to drop the pan. There's two pan bolts that thread into the cover which should be no problem, but those two angled nipples might throw things off?
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Which corners need snipping? I'm thinking of upgrading to some pretty covers while I have them off.
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The front bolts on the oil pan need to be removed. When you pull off the cover you will see where the replacement gaskets go for the pan. The four parts in the kit would be 1 cover gasket, 2 oil pan gaskets, 1 oil seal for timing cover. This is a simple job assuming you can get a puller on the balancer with the engine in the boat. I had to fabricate one to make it shorter to pull mine off while in the boat.
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I've never been sucessful installing a timing cover without dropping the pan.
It's a real bear to get the timing cover back in place and after all the hard work, the end result is a nasty oil leak.
-Kurt
It's a real bear to get the timing cover back in place and after all the hard work, the end result is a nasty oil leak.
-Kurt
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Thanks Kurt, just when I was almost feeling OK with trying this. ![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'm a ZERO Tolerance person when it comes to leaks so if it can't be perfect, I won't even attempt it.
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I'm a ZERO Tolerance person when it comes to leaks so if it can't be perfect, I won't even attempt it.
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I've had good luck doing it. I replaced mine with a cover for a cam driven water pump. The ffront 2 bolts on each side was all Ihad to lossen. No leaks either engine.
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Loosen as many bolts on the front of the oil pan as you can, snip the L+R lower corners of the timing cover then on a grinder blend them so you have a smooth contour. Do not use the crappy little pieces of gasket sopplied in the kit. Buy some "Right Stuff" made by Permetex its a very high grade sealant kinda like thick silicon. Use plenty in place of the gasket and your off to the races. Note: do not install the harmonic ballancer with a hammer use a propper instalation tool, looks like a large fine threaded 9/16 bolt and nut. If you use a hammer you will wreck the rear thrust bearing.
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Last edited by Andy; 03-20-2008 at 07:21 PM. Reason: sp
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Yes, I have changed cams several times, no big deal if you have the room in front...remove the ft lower bolts, and when you re-install, remove the ft rubber seal, put a nice thick bead of rtv instal cover and smooth out sealer, should be good to go, Rob
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tomas_wallin
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