DIY GEN III Cool Fuel
#1
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I was changing fuel filters on my 6.2's and took some pictures. If some of you out there have not done this yet it will show how easy of a job it is. Literally takes 5 minutes per engine. I actually think the Mercury engineers had the customer in mind when designing this thing!![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
The cool fuel module is where they put the heat exchanger, fuel pump, filter, and water separator into one package. I believe the 496 engines are the same as my 6.2's. Only change the fuel filters on a cold engine. Mercury recommends that it be shut off for 12 hours, but that seems a bit extreme...
Pic1 - Exploded view of the generation III cool fuel module.
Pic2 - The module is on the front port side of the engine below the alternator.
Pic3 - First dicsonnect fuel pump from the engine wiring harness. Turn the ignition key and operate the starter for about 5 seconds to release any fuel pressure. The filter cap is held in place by three screws. The only tool you need for this job is a 10mm socket or wrench.
![Big Grin](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
The cool fuel module is where they put the heat exchanger, fuel pump, filter, and water separator into one package. I believe the 496 engines are the same as my 6.2's. Only change the fuel filters on a cold engine. Mercury recommends that it be shut off for 12 hours, but that seems a bit extreme...
Pic1 - Exploded view of the generation III cool fuel module.
Pic2 - The module is on the front port side of the engine below the alternator.
Pic3 - First dicsonnect fuel pump from the engine wiring harness. Turn the ignition key and operate the starter for about 5 seconds to release any fuel pressure. The filter cap is held in place by three screws. The only tool you need for this job is a 10mm socket or wrench.
Last edited by 4mulafastech; 05-18-2008 at 08:50 AM. Reason: typo
#2
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Pic4 - After loosening the three screws (they do not come out of the cap) pull up on the filter cap handle to unseat the o-ring. Let it sit in this position for a few seconds to allow the fuel to drain out of the filter cup.
Pic5 - This shows the filter/water separator assembly. Hold the filter cup and rotate the cap clockwise to remove the cap.
Pic6 - This is the filter cartridge. It seats on a post in the filter cup.
Pic5 - This shows the filter/water separator assembly. Hold the filter cup and rotate the cap clockwise to remove the cap.
Pic6 - This is the filter cartridge. It seats on a post in the filter cup.
Last edited by 4mulafastech; 05-18-2008 at 08:50 AM.
#4
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Pic10 - Wipe out the inside of the filter cup. The paper towel shows the residue that was in mine.
Pic11 - Don't be tempted to use a screwdriver or some other tool to remove the o-ring from the filter cap. You risk scratching the plastic sealing surface. Just dry the o-ring so it isn't slippery and grab it with your finger and thumb and pinch/slide it to expose some slack.
Pic12 - Grab the slack and pull it off.
Put on the new o-ring and put everthing back together. Slowly install the assembly back in the module to prevent spilling fuel. Tighten the three screws. The manual says 53 in-lbs (a little past snug). Start the engines and check for any leaks.
BTW, my Formula does not have a fuel shut-off valve and I had no problem with fuel draining into the module while working on this. If you have a shut-off valve, use it.
That's it!
Pic11 - Don't be tempted to use a screwdriver or some other tool to remove the o-ring from the filter cap. You risk scratching the plastic sealing surface. Just dry the o-ring so it isn't slippery and grab it with your finger and thumb and pinch/slide it to expose some slack.
Pic12 - Grab the slack and pull it off.
Put on the new o-ring and put everthing back together. Slowly install the assembly back in the module to prevent spilling fuel. Tighten the three screws. The manual says 53 in-lbs (a little past snug). Start the engines and check for any leaks.
BTW, my Formula does not have a fuel shut-off valve and I had no problem with fuel draining into the module while working on this. If you have a shut-off valve, use it.
That's it!
#6
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I saw that in there, like a strainer and thought it was permanent. Mine looked clean. Do they sell replacements or is it cleanable? Didn't see anything in the manual about it. Thanks!
#9
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Good information. I agree that the secondary filter (35-892665) should be replaced also.
I learned this the hard way (snapped a bolt off in the module), clean the bolt threads and apply thread sealant before reinstalling the filter cap. Also, don't pull the filter out unless you have a new o-ring for the filter cap. The o-ring swells up slightly and may not reinstall properly.
Merc service bulletin on Gen III Cool-fuel diagnostics;
http://www.marinepartsman.com/Mercur...2004/EN_06.PDF
I learned this the hard way (snapped a bolt off in the module), clean the bolt threads and apply thread sealant before reinstalling the filter cap. Also, don't pull the filter out unless you have a new o-ring for the filter cap. The o-ring swells up slightly and may not reinstall properly.
Merc service bulletin on Gen III Cool-fuel diagnostics;
http://www.marinepartsman.com/Mercur...2004/EN_06.PDF
#10
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has any one found these parts somewhere where they don't cost an arm and a leg. Mercury sells a kit which has both the dic orin and paper cartrige but its about $65.00 for a set . I need two everytime
Last edited by 1999baja; 02-17-2011 at 05:31 PM. Reason: add pics