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Old 06-03-2008, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
I can't believe with the relief valve and the 1/2" intake dump you are still seeing that pressure, even if the t-stat is the hold up. Where are you dumping the water from the relief valve out? Is it a dedicated dump and is it the full 1" dump or did you reduce it down? I fail to see how the recirculating pump can build any pressure that you are seeing. (Maybe a couple psi??) It isn't a positive displacement pump, and can simply 'freewheel' with in the water. Dumb question, but you do have the valves plumbed up right? In your main 1 1/4" water line, before your t-stat housing with the 1" port your dump. (just covering all bases)

I'd also remove the stat and do a run. Might try the drilling the stat or using a restrictor plate instead, but with the relief valve, you should be fine. With the stat closed, the bypass circut within that housing might be too restrictive. Don't know, just thinking the same as the Merc 2 hose housing which is probably about the same as what you have.

Out of curiosity, when you see these high pressures, what are your engine temps?
My relief valve is a 1" line directly out the side of the boat.I added it in the 1-1/4" line after the oil cooler and just before the thermostat housing.I also thought this would cure my issue hence spending 500.00 for valves.With the 1/2" dump open I run 130 degrees no matter how hard I run.With the dump closed temp stays about 145 running hard and then at idle will go up to about 165-170 but cool down to 145 in a few minutes.I even thought maybe I installed the relief valve in the wrong direction,but I tried it both ways with my bench pressure test and it responded the same.So im still stumped.

Anthony
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:15 PM
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I'm at a loss. When I was dialing my valves in and cut the springs to short (lower spring pressure) I had way low WP.

Your stats are installed correctly and not being held from opening fully, such as bottoming out or hanging up in the intakes? Have to believe they are not bad since it occurs in both motors.

Do you have the stock Merc stat housings to retry? or pull the stat and run. At least it'll eliminate the exhaust and point to the SM stat housing design.

Do your intakes have the small bypass hose connecting to the top of the circ. WP?

Last edited by US1 Fountain; 06-03-2008 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
I'm at a loss. When I was dialing my valves in and cut the springs to short (lower spring pressure) I had way low WP.

Your stats are installed correctly and not being held from opening fully, such as bottoming out or hanging up in the intakes? Have to believe they are not bad since it occurs in both motors.

Do you have the stock Merc stat housings to retry? or pull the stat and run. At least it'll eliminate the exhaust and point to the SM stat housing design.

Do your intakes have the small bypass hose connecting to the top of the circ. WP?
Yup the bypass hoses from intake to water pump are on.I had them off for a while but temp would fluctuate way to much so I reinstalled them.I tested exhaust today and my 3/4 garden hose attached to the 1" hose that feeds the bottom of one headers flowed more then the garden hose could.Only leaves thermostat or the housing in my opinion.Thats why Im looking for anyone who has used the SM housing to see if they have had an issue.
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Old 06-05-2008, 07:09 PM
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Today I tried a little test in the driveway.After much thought and talking with a ton of people I am coming to the conclusion that my circulator pump is causing the excess pressure in my engine.The only way it could build pressure is to dead head against the thermostat.So with a thermostat in place I ran the motor at 2000 rpm for a minute and recorded 5 psi on the gauge and on both motors.I removed the thermostat and tried same test again and the needle just moved off the stop pin.I think with this test proves that the exhaust headers flow with no restriction and without a dead head for the pump it all just flows out the exhaust.This would explain why my merc. dump valve dont open because it is located before the circulator pump and is not seeing the added pressure.So now do I try a bypass and eliminate the circulator so I can run a thermostat?Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks Anthony
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Old 06-06-2008, 07:11 AM
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Nordic, I would single gauge survey the system if you can. But if it's to be accurate, use one gauge and forget what your dashboard gauge is telling you for now. I'm not familiar with your exact plumbing system but generally speaking get a NEW mechanical pressure gauge, take a reading after your raw pump, after your cooler/ coolers, at the circulation pump inlet (unless your cooler location is the same), and off the block or back of the intake. You can also try it without your t-stat. You should figure it right out.
Also, could your raw water pump pulley have been changed to a smaller diameter?
Good luck,
Excal
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Old 06-06-2008, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by nordic95
Today I tried a little test in the driveway.After much thought and talking with a ton of people I am coming to the conclusion that my circulator pump is causing the excess pressure in my engine.The only way it could build pressure is to dead head against the thermostat.So with a thermostat in place I ran the motor at 2000 rpm for a minute and recorded 5 psi on the gauge and on both motors.I removed the thermostat and tried same test again and the needle just moved off the stop pin.I think with this test proves that the exhaust headers flow with no restriction and without a dead head for the pump it all just flows out the exhaust.This would explain why my merc. dump valve dont open because it is located before the circulator pump and is not seeing the added pressure.So now do I try a bypass and eliminate the circulator so I can run a thermostat?Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks Anthony
Check all the lines and openings. you have to have blockage or restriction somewhere. Do you have pictures? Do you have the connections on the stat housing set up right? If you flip flop the inlet from the raw water pump and the circulator pump then this exact condition will happen.
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Old 06-12-2008, 11:47 AM
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did you fix this? curious about the outcome
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Old 06-12-2008, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by VetteLT193
did you fix this? curious about the outcome
No time to test lately but hope to do some testing this weekend.
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Old 06-12-2008, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nordic95
No time to test lately but hope to do some testing this weekend.
I'm the same way with my projects
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Old 06-15-2008, 07:58 AM
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I have excacly same problem on my 500 hp 454. I have bin all the way as you describe and still have way too high pressure. Thought it was the Headers that was the problem but its not. When turning 3000 rpm the big hose from cirkulationspump to T-house starts to expand like a ballon.
Is it possible that the pressure comes from a leaking headgasket ?
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