two-rocks

No oil temps, oil filter was only warm to the touch - but can zap the filter with the non-contact thermometer I was using. (yes - I will add a gauge to the boat)

Offthefront - sounds like we are the same on oil pressures. My concern is that the oil pump bypass would be open at anything above 65ish. and just whipping the oil in the pan.

How much is too much no-load idle time? I'm at 20 minutes now and wanted to run it again without water going to the oil cooler....

Chris Sunkin

Not necessarily. If the pump puts our twice the volume of what is needed cold, it's going to open the bypass. If it still is putting out 1.1 times what's needed once the clearances open up and the oil thins when things warm up, it's still going to open the bypass. If the bypass is at 62 lbs, that's what the oil system will see all the time. Ideally, you should not be on the bypass on a warm motor. It adds heat to the oil. Too much oil pump is hard on the pump drive rod, the cam gear, the distributor gear and can even cause funky cam harmonics, costing you a few HP. High oil pressure gives you nothing additional- other than more heat to remove and more load on the componentry. 50-55 PSI at operating temp is all you need. The biggest issue is internal flow restrictions and restrictions in accessories- small-flow coolers, block adapters and undersized or sharp-angle hose fittings- they're all motor-killers.

If it were my motor, I'd get it back on the engine stand and look at those bearing clearances. I'd also go back to a standard oil pump and do some basic oil system blueprinting.

Andy

Sounds way too high with the clearances and temps you listed. Try swaping out the gauge with a known acurate one.

stevesxm

its the high volume pump and the low temps. the hv pump goes on the by pass as mentioned but the by pass is not infinite. w/ cold oil the hv pump will still push more volume ( bad and unecessary) then the bypass can deal with. you will want to know what the pressure is when the oild temp is 220 to 265... if its STILL high and you are certain your clearences are correct, then , as suggested, the oil pump is too big for the application. that is a bad deal all around. costs power, makes heat, wears out the distributor gear... etc etc.

two-rocks

Ran it up to temp again - the oil never went above 135 degrees where it stabilized. I didn't remove the water from the cooler as I didn't have enough 'stuff' to rig up some plumbing.

The good news is that the pressure was under 60 (about 56-57) at idle with the oil temp stabilized at 135. Engine was at 160 degrees (fresh water cooled).

Had a little 'clack' in the exhaust every now and then - not like a backfire, not the same pitch as a rod knock, not piston slap, and no noise in the top end (went around the whole engine with a long screwdriver touching the engine and the handle end in my ear! - did this all over the engine). Maybe crosstalk between the spark pug wires? (put the junk ones back on as the set I ordered was not the correct one. I didn't bother properly separating them)

Be careful going around the engine with a sound listening device and not paying attention to the timing light leads! I'll have to clean up some scuff marks on the leads now....

Also seemed to like more than the 8 degrees initial timing - I set it at 10 (but had it higher). I have a TB-IV with 24 degrees added, and will set the total at 34 or so when in the boat. Before that I'll re-measure the TDC and make sure that's good.

Changed the oil and opened the filter - filter material had nothing in it - or at least nothing I could find. The oil itself did have some sparkle to it in the bright sunlight, but I would assume thats normal.

stevesxm

well.... i suppose. but if the budget would tolerate a trip to the dyno, even for the purposes of break in and final set up and troubleshooting, i think that would be a much better deal then putting it in the boat twice... and oil and water temps are important. you are going to want 200 + oil temps and 165 + water temps to make the thing live and run right.

ill get hate mail now from all the guys that love ice cold water temps but i think theyre wrong except on the giant high hp high boost blower motors.

my point is simply that if you THINK there might be some issue , find out for certain BEFORE you put it in the boat.

RunninHotRacing163.1

if the pressure is that high when cold. Might not be a problem. When it heats up it should drop some for ya ... We have High oil pressure at idle and a lil cruisin at 2500 rpm brings that oil temp up and pressure down ... good luck

Budz Motorsports

Most of our Big Block stuff is around 60psi when started and with about 200 oil temp will drop to about 40 idle. This is with a hv pump.