Kill Switch/Relay question.
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OK so I do not have kill switch in the boat as of now. I have one that is the NO style. I don't like the idea of grounding out anything. So here is my question. I thought I could use a relay. I would connect the NO kill switch to the coil and the main ignition power to a NC contact. When the tether is pulled supplies power to the relay opening the main ignition power and disabling the motor/boat. I also figure this way I could install a switch in series with the tether, in the case of me be displaced from the boat, it could be switched to then remove power from the relay again giving power back to the ignition. This would eliminate the need for another tether. What do you guys think. Do you see an issue with this. My only real concern is if the relay were to chatter. If I do not hard mount it I think I should be fine but wanted to run it by you.
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#2
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Kill switch is designed as an ignition switch and will handle the current when installed in series after the key switch.
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They should be killing the voltage to the ignition system and are rated for the amperage. We have them in stock too!
In NO or NC configurations!
In NO or NC configurations!
Last edited by Elite Marine; 06-28-2008 at 07:55 PM.
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they cut the power to the ignition, not ground them out, thats on outboards,, if you use a merc switch, it is a toggle switch with a tether on it, if you leave the seat it pulls the tether, if your not there to hook it back up, you just flip the toggle switch to run.
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You're right in not wanting to ground anything. The kill switch you have is for a basic magneto ignition- like on an older outboard. You HAVE to ground a magneto to prevenbt it from firing
If I understand what you are considering, you wnat to take a NO switch and control the NC relay. When your kill switch goes to circuit closed, it will ground the primary side of your relay, causing it to actuate and opening the secondary contacts. These would be in line with the voltage feed to your ignition. Yes, this would work. The right kill switch would work too, would be less complex and thus, more reliable
I absolutely do not like the flip-to-run style switch. It's too easy to flip it and run it. The cap style forces a little more action and forces more discipline- the switch is too easy to jump in and go and possibly forget to hook up- and it won't be there when you need it.
If I understand what you are considering, you wnat to take a NO switch and control the NC relay. When your kill switch goes to circuit closed, it will ground the primary side of your relay, causing it to actuate and opening the secondary contacts. These would be in line with the voltage feed to your ignition. Yes, this would work. The right kill switch would work too, would be less complex and thus, more reliable
I absolutely do not like the flip-to-run style switch. It's too easy to flip it and run it. The cap style forces a little more action and forces more discipline- the switch is too easy to jump in and go and possibly forget to hook up- and it won't be there when you need it.
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Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'll just get a new one and be done with it. Chris, your right more parts more possibilities of problems. Was just a thought. Maybe I'll put the kill switch I have on my garden tractor seeing as it the only thing I will drink and drive
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