496HO with Raylar kit and Whipple Stage 2
07-20-2008, 02:24 PM
#21
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Raeburn:
Check your fuel pressure settings with a calibrated fuel pressure gauge and make sure they are not higher than 50psi key on, engine off. You might also try turning down the fuel pressure just a couple of pounds to lets say 48 psi and try that briefly to see if most of the overfueling that you see occuring disappears. As I have posted before, some of this black soot is from our new wonderful gasoline blends and not unburned fuel. Look at the tail pipes of most new GM vehicles and touch with your finger inside when cool and you will see the same black soot and these vehicles run very lean on closed loop O2 systems.
As for fast boats, "Want a really fast boat, then purchase a fast boat hull to begin with, Want a big, mass produced pleasure type hull then be happy with mid 70 mile per hour speeds" You won't see any race teams using performance pleasure hulls and equipment for racing!
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Check your fuel pressure settings with a calibrated fuel pressure gauge and make sure they are not higher than 50psi key on, engine off. You might also try turning down the fuel pressure just a couple of pounds to lets say 48 psi and try that briefly to see if most of the overfueling that you see occuring disappears. As I have posted before, some of this black soot is from our new wonderful gasoline blends and not unburned fuel. Look at the tail pipes of most new GM vehicles and touch with your finger inside when cool and you will see the same black soot and these vehicles run very lean on closed loop O2 systems.
As for fast boats, "Want a really fast boat, then purchase a fast boat hull to begin with, Want a big, mass produced pleasure type hull then be happy with mid 70 mile per hour speeds" You won't see any race teams using performance pleasure hulls and equipment for racing!
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
I checked the fuel pressure today, it showed about 54 pounds with key on, engine off. With the engine idling it was fluttering between 54 and 60 pounds. Too high, so I go to adjust at the regulator (with #10 torx) and the screw head is stripped!! The screwdriver will grab but slips as soon as you put any torque on it. I don't know how much force it will take to turn the screw (I'm not familiar with stock GM MPI fuel regulators - there's no lock nut or anything - do you turn screw out to reduce pressure?)
Does anyone have advice on what to do with the stripped screw to make it work? I could probably replace the regulator, don't know how hard it would be, it's pretty buried under ECM, wiring etc.
Thanks,
Bruce
07-20-2008, 04:07 PM
#22
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Are you using a tamper proof torx? Should not be to hard to turn it once all the paint is scrapped out of the way...A little trick is to drill a hole in the bracket the holds the computer then you can adjust it on the go....
07-21-2008, 08:00 AM
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09-03-2008, 01:16 AM
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I got a tamper-proof #10 torx, but the screw head was too stripped to turn, so I had to put on a new fuel pressure regulator. I dialed the pressure back to 49 pounds and ran it for a weekend poker run - really cleaned up the soot (still a bit there but nothing like before! The oil is staying cleaner too). I checked the spark plugs after some WOT runs and they looked okay - I find these long life platinum plugs harder to read than regular ones, they seem to stay pretty white even under overrich conditions.
Last edited by raeburn; 05-06-2010 at 11:16 AM.
09-03-2008, 10:05 AM
#25
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We had some leakage around the head bolts for a few hours after we install the kit. We put plenty of sealent on the threads so we just made sure the bolts were tight and put some hours on the engine and sure enough the leaks stopped. I would monitor the leaking and enjoy the boat for the rest of the season if it was me.
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