ubet28

I was thinking about getting these riser from emi here is the link. Again I THANK ALL OF YOU FOR THE HELP!!!!!

http://www.eddiemarine.com/store/car...&p=13038&c=249

Chris Sunkin

What's on there now? How does the water enter the tailpipe? How far from the manifold? Pics?

ubet28

I have the short ones for the silent choice and they do not recommend using a high performance cam with them. This is what they say about the ones i am thinking about buying and just putting mine on eBay. The link is the pair i have.

http://www.eddiemarine.com/store/car...&p=13039&c=249

Equipped with our performance Stainless Steel High Flow Risers, these are our best performing systems. They are a direct replacement for stock Mercruiser manifolds in Bravo and Alpha applications where the exhaust outlets exit through the transom in the stock location. The 16" long riser is a must with High Performance camshafts to prevent reversion (water ingestion). These will NOT work with Selector systems or stock "S" pipe connections. Brackets to keep all of the stock componenets in their existing locations (shift quadrant, ignition module and oil filter bracket) are included (There is an additional charge on some late model EFI systems). Standard with black Fusioncoated finish-optional finishes are available. Specify the correct accessory brackets and options when ordering. System includes 1pr. EMI Exhaust Manifolds, 1pr. High Performance Stainless Risers, Bolts, gaskets, fittings and accessory brackets (specify when ordering) System for Big Block Chevy

blue thunder

What you can do with the risers in the link to make them work if you have a straight shot out the transom is this: Find some thin wall SS or aluminum tubing that just lightly presses into the ID of the exhaust gas chamber on the riser. You may need to turn the end of the tubes on a lathe to get a perfect fit. You cut these tubes to a length that when slipped into the risers from the transom side of the boat are flush with the output side of your exhaust tips. Then using some fasteners at the end of the tips, you clamp the inner tubes to the tips. This makes your exhaust effectively dry and you can get pretty aggressive on camshaft. Plus the cost is nil and the crackle is awesome.

BT

ubet28

Thanks Klaw, I was thinking about taking the motor to Bill at ATECO. Do rember what he was like on his price?

KAAMA

Here's another option if you like...a marine engine building shop here in western Michigan named WESCO. His name is Dave Wesseldyk.

I would say about 99.5% of all the engines Dave builds are for Marine offshore applications. He has an excellent reputation and many of the guys in Chicago take their engines to him because they cannot seem to find anyone else they can trust to build them right. You can ask "10x"/Frank of the Chicago Powerboat Club about who he recommends and why. And all the guys who have had there engines built by Dave are all out there running every weekend. His stuff stays together!

www.wescoracingengines.com

ubet28

Thanks Kaama, I will give him a call.

Chris Sunkin

Don't know Dave personally but I've seen his work. Not heard a bad thing yet about him.

Thunderstruck

You have three threads inquiring about the same motor, who's advice are you going to use????

ubet28

I didn't realise i had three threads. If that's the case the more info i can get and go through the better. I did ask this question in the beware section but figured it would not get seen as much as it would in this section.

I went back and found the other thread and i am basically getting the same input. Things have changed now after getting the motor and finding out it is all rusty and **** i guess i just forgot about it.