288sunny

Just curious if anyone has figured out, when doing a oil change, which method gets more of the oil out, draining through oil pan hose, or sucking through dipstick?
I was also curious if before an oil change if you warm the motor up, either in the water or on the hose?

I normally drain through the hose, and sometimes I warm the motor up and sometimes i dont, just curious on other methods? Im switching my oil to either Mobile 1 or syntec.

Velocity Vector

Run the engine(s) until warmed to at least 130 degrees if you don't warm it up the contaminates will stay behind and contaminate the new oil.
Drain the oil using the pump, or into the pan
Replace the plug or close the valve
Loosen the oil filter on the engine until it can be turned by hand
Put a Zip Lock Baggie around the filter, and unscrew the rest of the way
Use a paper towel to catch drips from the filter's mounting
Seal the zip lock baggie keeping the filter upright
Put it into the new filter's box
Using your finger, wet the O-ring atop the new filter with fresh, clean oil
Screw on the new filter until just finger-tip tight
Follow the manufacturer's recommendation as to tightening with the wrench
Re-fill the crankcase with new oil (see your engine handbook)
Be sure to add a quart for the filter
Wipe up any drips
Start the engine and let it run a few minutes
Checking to be sure oil pressure comes up and there are no oil leaks around the filter or drain plugs
Dispose of the oil properly at an approved disposal facility

SDFever

It makes no difference what so ever on the dipstick tube or the hose. They're the same with regards to the amount of residual oil that gets left behind. You'll have that on any engine (residual oil). If you pull the pan, you'll see that the dipstick tube end and the "hose" end both go to the same depth.

As far as warming it up, again makes no difference. If you suck or pump until the pumping device starts cavitating or "sucking air bubbles" you've got all of it out that is going to come out without tearing down the engine.

Why not just punch a small hole in the top of the filter after you shut the engine off. This allows very easy, clean removal of filter with no mess as the new air induced into the filter allows it to drain almost completely saving the drip drip.

Warm or not the oil will come out. Just make sure that the boat is reasonably level.

Velocity Vector

[QUOTE=SDFever;2711661]As far as warming it up, again makes no difference. QUOTE]

Why are you changing the oil? Because it is contaminated with abrasive and chemical impurities. But the dirt in oil is just like dirt in water; leave it undisturbed and it settles to the bottom. Suck out the cold oil and much of the dirt stays behind, immediately contaminating the fresh oil and defeating the whole purpose of the oil change. Run the engine and get all of the contaminants in suspension so they come out with the oil. "Trust me I'm a oil doctor"

SDFever

[QUOTE=Velocity Vector;2711673]So if you run the engine somehow the "bad oil" knows not to fill the journals, lifters, all of the nooks and crannies in the motor because ??

There's over a quart of oil left in this motor, cooler lines, etc. You'll have impurities no matter what because no matter what you can do from "outside" the engine, there will always be dark black oil trapped throughout the system.

How do you "suspend" the impurities in a motor? Oil is like blood in a human. Whether it's junk or good stuff, it gets everywhere.

"Trust me. I'm a guy who has had to tear it apart".

Velocity Vector

I agree you can not get every bit of dirty oil out of an engine but doesn't it make since to try to get as much of the contaminants out of the engine as possible by circulating the oil and get the contaminants in suspension in the oil before you change it.

We can agree on this, When you put Hershey's chocolate in a glass of milk you don't just drink it, you stir it up first and yes when you drink it all there is some left behind but not as much if you hadn't stired it at all.

SDFever

No sir. Sorry. Respectfully we don't agree. Forgetting about the hershey's, there is no such thing as somehow being able to "suspend" dirt in oil when the oil itself is what contains the bad stuff. Dirt or soot is everywhere in every instance that there is oil itself. Soot/contaminats in oil are much thinner and honestly can not be compared to syrup in milk.

I guarantee you that if you suck all of the oil out that you can get out, then you've done the best you can on this engine. I originally said that there is "at least a quart" of oil left over. It's really like closer to 2 quarts give or take.

Have you ever flushed your drain hose, oil cooler, all oil cooler lines including remote filter lines etc???? Then maybe think about the entire block, different areas in the heads??

Doesn't matter.

Change the oil every 25 hours warm or cold and enjoy the boat.

Velocity Vector

Okey doky

SDFever

"Trust me I'm a oil doctor"

I'm interested in understanding your point on "contaminat suspension". Are you saying that by running the motor you'd be stiring up whatever's laying at the bottom of a given area and then after you shut the motor off this "stuff" would just hang there long enough for me to pump out 9 or so quarts?

Also, how much more has your experience shown to remove warm vs. ambient? Just curious what caused you to go to such extreme on a rec motor that typically uses a filter that allows the passage of very fine impurities.

Meaning that the average stock filter used by Merc would not even care... If you're the "oil doctor" then I wanna hear.

Velocity Vector

As you stated before we can't get it all out. Contaminat suspension: Dispersants and viscocity in the oil provide resistance to sludge deposits, holding engine oil contaminants in suspension to help keep engines running clean.

Warm VS ambient: When changing the oil, having the engine thoroughly warmed up so the oil drains easily out of the engine when the drain plug is removed. This allows removing the greatest amount but not all of oil from the engine in the least amount of time.

Drain the oil as quickly as possible after the warm-up to insure that contaminants "stuff" including moisture (water), dirt, wear metals (such as iron and aluminum), and unburned gasoline. More not all are drained from the engine before they have time to settle out of suspension.

I still have the old school mantality on oil and not saying if you do what I'm saying your engine will last forever over one that you don't, Oil is a whole lot better than it used to be but I still try to do everything possible to get as many hrs. out of one as possible.

By the way your Raylor engine in your pic is sweet such a clean looking set-up they have, Did you do the build or Raylor, what all did you do to the bottom end.