Dyno Testing
#1
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Since I am getting really good at posting stupid questions, here is another one:
How exactly is dyno testing done on a boat?
I am planning on putting a ProCharger on my 454 MAG MPI this spring and someone told me I should have it dyno'd when I am done to make sure the air/fuel mixture is set up right and so forth. How does the dyno hook up to the boat and what information do you get from it? Also, does anyone know where this can be done in the Connecticut area and how much does it usually cost to have it done?
Any info would be appreciated...
Ted
How exactly is dyno testing done on a boat?
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Any info would be appreciated...
Ted
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#2
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You'll have to find someone with a "prop dyno" ....you bring your boat with your engine all hooked up as if were going to throw it in the water and go for a ride. They hook the dyno up to your prop and you can test your engine from there. I also don't really know how extensive you can fine tune an engine with monitor and or sensor eguipment with the engine being in the boat---if you could monitor the major vitals of an engine then the prop dyno sounds like a neat way to go. I've never seen one and don't really know how accurate they are but perhaps someone else can shed some light on it.
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I am putting stage 4 procharger on 540 BBC. I talked to Mike @ procharger, I was telling him I was going to have motor dynoed to get jetting right. He told me to make sure jetting was good & rich on dyno before putting in boat. He told me that between dyno & boat jetting will change. I have talked to other people & they verifyed that was possible. With that, I decided to go & put in boat & go from there. If you call procharger & tell them your setup they will get you close on jetting. ( At least they will give you a place to start.) I have not gone to water yet so do not know.
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Dyno'ing your engine will do very little for setting it up. The dyno cal on swept test are very different than the actual full load/real world calibrations. There's nothing you can do with the Procharger system anyways except adjust fuel pressure with the 454 Mag MPI. If Procharger are telling people to make it rich on the dyno for the boat, I've found just the opposite but we use wide range, 6 wire oxygen sensors that give us accurate readings so depending on what they use, that info could be more accurate per their instrumentation although doubtful.
If you do want to dyno it, I would take the motor out, there are very few propshaft dynos that hold that kind of power and are not very accurate. I would recommend a dyno shop that has proper instrumentation and can do steady state dyno testing for proper evaluation of the fuel system. Most shops that run engine dynos charge between ($600-1200) each day. Propshaft chargers are much less but much harder to find one that holds around 600hp and can supply the engine with enough water to keep cold.
Thanks,
Dustin
If you do want to dyno it, I would take the motor out, there are very few propshaft dynos that hold that kind of power and are not very accurate. I would recommend a dyno shop that has proper instrumentation and can do steady state dyno testing for proper evaluation of the fuel system. Most shops that run engine dynos charge between ($600-1200) each day. Propshaft chargers are much less but much harder to find one that holds around 600hp and can supply the engine with enough water to keep cold.
Thanks,
Dustin
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Dustin,
Does your boat that you are putting those beautiful hemis into have bravo drives and stellings extension boxes? If so I will be having an On-Board-Dyno for that setup. Real time in the boat actual shaft torque and horsepower. Interested? Marty.
Does your boat that you are putting those beautiful hemis into have bravo drives and stellings extension boxes? If so I will be having an On-Board-Dyno for that setup. Real time in the boat actual shaft torque and horsepower. Interested? Marty.
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My enginebuilder nailed my setup from the dyno. The demons were set up a little lean from BG and the motor wanted a little more fuel on the dyno. Went up 2 jets all the way around on my TR set-up which proved ideal on the dyno. Havn't had to touch my carbs since (remember to lock tight base plate screws) ..no black on the transom, no hesitations, plugs read excellent although a tad on the rich side. I have been told by many marine engine builders that typically you need to jet DOWN 2 sizes when "installed" versus being on the dyno. Based on my plugs, I believe this would be the case with my motor. However, the plugs I run are -10 NGK's or Champion Pro stock plugs...VERY COLD plugs. I've just left it on the rich side to be safe since I run 10.5/1 on 93 Octane.
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NO AIR /FUEL MIXTURES TO WORRY ABOUT, YOU HAVE EFI WITH A ECM. IF YOU PLAN ON DYNOING YOUR MOTOR OUT OF THE BOAT THE COMPLETE FUEL SYSTEM SHOULD BE RUN WITH IT ALSO. JUST DID MY 454 MAGNUM MPI STAGE 1 PROCHARGER, AND WAS VERY SUPRIZED AND IMPRESSED WITH THE NUMBERS
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