Water in oil with pics
#11
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I know the feeling. Bought a boat over the winter a couple years ago. In the spring started to do a service on everything and I found the same thing. Pulled the motor and took it to the shop and all that was wrong internally (besides rust) was a very slightly bent valve. I would pull it and go through it if I were you.
I even applied pressure to the complete water system and found nothing wrong. The only change I made was to add flaps to the exhaust.
I will have to say the seller paid a large portion of the rebuild. Not too often you find a seller like that.
I even applied pressure to the complete water system and found nothing wrong. The only change I made was to add flaps to the exhaust.
I will have to say the seller paid a large portion of the rebuild. Not too often you find a seller like that.
#12
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My suggestion is to go ahead and tear down the engine and put in new bearings and rings and oil pump. Flush the engine while you have it apart.
Bearings and ringe are only a couple hundred extra bucks and head gaskets are cheap also. You all ready have most of the engine torn down anyway.
You can lead a horse to water. Better safe than sitting on the shore thinking about what might have been.
Have a good summer
#13
I hate the winter!!
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I agree with the tear down. BUT, along with the cost of the rings and bearings, you have to figure on a full tear down, at least have the block honed, the crank polished, the list goes on. Before you know it, you spent alot of $$.
#14
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But with just polishing the crank and poishing the bore it is only a couple hundy also.
Just depends on who is doing the work, If you are doing it, get after it and spend the extra dough, If you are having all the work done, then I guess maybe it is worth the gamble. It just depends on how much you enjoy and look forward to your boating during the season.
#15
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Don't cut the corner!
As an engine builder and pretty good engine tech I can tell you absolutely that your engine has to come out and either Redone , Rebuilt or Replaced! Whatever allowed that much moisture and water in the engine has already done enough damage with rust and water alone to seriously damage the rotating assembly and rings and valves. Depending on what your engine actually is, an exchange long block may be the way to go and all your manifolds, coolers, etc. need to be cleaned and pressure tested before reusing them!
I would not try a cheap temporary fix as it will probably give up quick, destroy your core value and ruin your boating season early.
Best of Luck on your misfortune.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
I would not try a cheap temporary fix as it will probably give up quick, destroy your core value and ruin your boating season early.
Best of Luck on your misfortune.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
#16
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Thanks guys for the advice, but iam not going lie. Iam going to use the motor the way it is but flush out the oil as best as possible. I just got my trans fixed in my f350 dually and funds are kinda tight. If the motor does blow up then i'll start to look for a new motor then. I know this isnt the want add's but if anybody has a good rebuildable short block please pm me or email me at [email protected]
thanks
Erik
thanks
Erik
Last edited by crapr6; 04-03-2009 at 09:13 PM.
#17
Ginger or Mary Ann?
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Well then, might as well give it hell when you hit the water, but carry a tow rope.
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#19
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I did several oil changes in a row over very short intervals.
Crapr6, I think if you simply change the oil every couple of hours till the oil comes out clean you'll stand the best chance of success with this engine.
I would stay away from flushing the engine with any diesel or kerosene, and I would also avoid the urge to scrape rust off of parts you can't fully remove and wirewheel real good.
The worst case scenario here is that a bunch of rust will damage the bearings and oil pump and you'll lose oil pressure. If caught early enough, you won't destroy anything, and the damage will be well within the limits of a core engine for exchange purposes.
Also, make sure you have fixed the water intrusion issue as well.
Best of luck to you on this one,
Greg
#20
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This may not go over well on this site, but I have actually revived a submerged and rusted car engine without tearing it down and it was fine for a long time.
I did several oil changes in a row over very short intervals.
Crapr6, I think if you simply change the oil every couple of hours till the oil comes out clean you'll stand the best chance of success with this engine.
I would stay away from flushing the engine with any diesel or kerosene, and I would also avoid the urge to scrape rust off of parts you can't fully remove and wirewheel real good.
The worst case scenario here is that a bunch of rust will damage the bearings and oil pump and you'll lose oil pressure. If caught early enough, you won't destroy anything, and the damage will be well within the limits of a core engine for exchange purposes.
Also, make sure you have fixed the water intrusion issue as well.
Best of luck to you on this one,
Greg
I did several oil changes in a row over very short intervals.
Crapr6, I think if you simply change the oil every couple of hours till the oil comes out clean you'll stand the best chance of success with this engine.
I would stay away from flushing the engine with any diesel or kerosene, and I would also avoid the urge to scrape rust off of parts you can't fully remove and wirewheel real good.
The worst case scenario here is that a bunch of rust will damage the bearings and oil pump and you'll lose oil pressure. If caught early enough, you won't destroy anything, and the damage will be well within the limits of a core engine for exchange purposes.
Also, make sure you have fixed the water intrusion issue as well.
Best of luck to you on this one,
Greg