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Old 03-29-2009, 06:09 PM
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Default Water in oil with pics

So I just uncover my boat and fired it up and runs 100%! I drain the oil and it looks milky. Iam replacing the stock manifolds/risers with lighting headers and pulling the stock intake for a better alum intake. So I pulled the risers off and sure enought water laying in the exhaust runners. I pulled the manifolds and the water residue in about 3 exhaust ports. I pulled the intake manifold and the gaskets looked ok but the lifter valley has milky oil laying in it. Pulled the valve covers and some of the push rods, guide plates, etc are rusty. Now my question is is it possible the water mixed with the oil from just the leaking manifolds/risers or should I pull the heads and check the head gaskets and chech the heads for cracks?
Remember this motor ran 100% and never missed a beat.

Oil that I drained out


The worst exhaust port on the manifold






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Old 03-29-2009, 06:37 PM
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Run a comp. check. If the numbers look good pickel the engine with diesel fuel and cross your fingers. Water came in from the exhaust however it looks like it has been there since last season.
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Old 03-29-2009, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Westcoast
Run a comp. check. If the numbers look good pickel the engine with diesel fuel and cross your fingers. Water came in from the exhaust however it looks like it has been there since last season.
I know it deffinaly had water coming in from the manifolds/risers but will that be enought to case milky oil? I mean the water would have to be going thru the exhaust port pass the exh valve and then bypassing the piston rings to get to the oil.
Iam really thinking of slaping on a new intake and the headers and flushing the heck out the engine and pray its not a head gasket, head or even a cracked block.
Erik
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:04 PM
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I agree, the water has been in that engine for a while. At least since the last few runs of last season. The rusty push rods are evidence that the engine has had water in for a long time. The clean spots on the push rods, by the guide plates are evidence that the engine has been run with water in it. If it were just a case of water getting in the oil over winter lay up, the pushrods would not have shinny spots where they pass through the guides. Very possible that the water entered from a faulty manifold or riser. Water can easily pass through the rings and end up in the pan. What are those things that are wrapped around the lower part of the valve springs?
As was said, you may get away with a flush but that depends on how much rust got into the critical engine parts, like the bearings. They may be prematurely worn out from the debris in the oil.
My opinion is that a complete tear down is the prudent choice.

PS>>> Didnt you change the oil before winter lay up?

Last edited by Vinny P; 03-29-2009 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by crapr6
I know it deffinaly had water coming in from the manifolds/risers but will that be enought to case milky oil? I mean the water would have to be going thru the exhaust port pass the exh valve and then bypassing the piston rings to get to the oil.
Iam really thinking of slaping on a new intake and the headers and flushing the heck out the engine and pray its not a head gasket, head or even a cracked block.
Erik
Water will leak past the rings.
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:18 PM
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pull the engine check for cracks ? with all that rust you are gamdling (at a minimum rings & bearings pushrods oilpump v alve job) PS Ihave a real niceshort block Icould sill you
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinny P
I agree, the water has been in that engine for a while. At least since the last few runs of last season. The rusty push rods are evidence that the engine has had water in for a long time. The clean spots on the push rods, by the guide plates are evidence that the engine has been run with water in it. If it were just a case of water getting in the oil over winter lay up, the pushrods would not have shinny spots where they pass through the guides. Very possible that the water entered from a faulty manifold or riser. Water can easily pass through the rings and end up in the pan. What are those things that are wrapped around the lower part of the valve springs?
As was said, you may get away with a flush but that depends on how much rust got into the critical engine parts, like the bearings. They may be prematurely worn out from the debris in the oil.
My opinion is that a complete tear down is the prudent choice.

PS>>> Didnt you change the oil before winter lay up?
I just bought the boat at the end of the season and only ran it once before I winterized and wraped it up. It ran 100% and when I bought it I poped the filler cap on the valve cover and everything looked good. The oil on the dipstick was 100% also.
I never changed out the oil since it was fresh oil before I winterized it but like you said it must of been in there for a while since the push rods have rust on them.
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:34 PM
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it looks to me like the problem has existed for a long time,id almost bet it is from a cracked exhaust manifold.i doubt the head gasgets are bad.install the headers&new intake manifold,fill the engine with new oil&filter,run it for 30 minutes[but not hard]change oil&filter,and keep your fingers crossed.if it is in your budget,pull engine,tear down&inspect all internal parts,replace parts as necessary.good luck.
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mike tkach
it looks to me like the problem has existed for a long time,id almost bet it is from a cracked exhaust manifold.i doubt the head gasgets are bad.install the headers&new intake manifold,fill the engine with new oil&filter,run it for 30 minutes[but not hard]change oil&filter,and keep your fingers crossed.if it is in your budget,pull engine,tear down&inspect all internal parts,replace parts as necessary.good luck.
That is what I think iam going to do and pray it was the manifolds/risers that caused this mess. I really dont want to pull and tear down the engine. I want to get atleast this year out of it and have no problem pulling it next winter.
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Old 03-31-2009, 03:34 PM
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With oil that looked like that I would recomend a rebuild. I am not a machinist but that could not have been good on the bearings. If you spin a rod or main during the season you could be down for a while and cost a lot more money.
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