External Hydraulic Steering
#1
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External Hydraulic Steering
My gimbal ring has become worn and allows some steering slop. Its not real bad and I was wanting to know if adding an external hydraulic steering would prevent me from having to repair the gimbal for another year or 2 and give some margin of safety?
Lots of input and opinoins will be greatly appreciated.
Chris
Lots of input and opinoins will be greatly appreciated.
Chris
#2
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Simple answer NO. Fix the problem, its not that hard to do.
It will be allot cheaper than adding external steering.
It will be allot cheaper than adding external steering.
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#4
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Ok Jeff and Jim the reason I asked is I was quoted labor of 8 hrs at 80.00hr=640+Gimbal ring 900 tiller arm 150 Gimbal Pin 150 misc parts 100= 1940.00 Thats getting into the range of an add on Hydraulic System. I do appreciate your input.
Chris
Chris
Last edited by Blueabyss; 04-01-2009 at 01:27 PM.
#5
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The stress to the pins from the hydraulic steering would only contribute to it wearing out even faster. Very dangerous. Please dont put your health and safety on a budget!!!!!!!!!!!!
#7
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Steering
WOW Elite. Most people on here think I should repair the Gimbal first so thats what I will prob do. I thought about putting Ext Hyd Steering on after that to keep my new stuff from wearing out too quickly but since you say it will wear my parts quicker then I will have to re-think that.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
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First, what kind of power, how do you operate the boat, lots of hard turning, to much trim? this will wear it out. You can rebuild it with with the same style ring and helmet, than add the 1/2 hyd system. If you came to me with that problem I would, go with the HP gimbal kit $1600.00 since you have to remove the transom assy to do it right and not the 1/2 a$$ way with plugs. Then add the hyd outside system as long as your helm and cable are in good condition no play. The pin play comes from the force on the steering arm and pin in the yoke, the pins wear from the screw in pins the theads act like hacksaw blades on the alum yoke. The hp has bushings and larger pins that are held in with 4 bolts on each pin. The steering load will be moved to the end cap or for some BIG money a wing plate of the 6 drive mounting studs. you will have to add a mech drive indicator or use the electric one they use on the I .T. S. Bravo drive it works out to about the same money.
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I know I am new here from...
the outboard drag racing world, but I have moved to a 454 Pachanga and I am having the same problem with my gimbal.
So I called my most trusted Mercury Master Mechanic and discussed replacing my Gimbal ring. He is more than willing to do it, and his price is extremely reaosnable...however...and this part may be is obvious to you guys...
He told me to go to the two U-bolt nuts that are exposed at the top of the outdrive, and to slowly and evenly tighten them to 55 foot pounds (tighten one a little , then move to the other, and keep going back and forth).
I did not expect much, and wanting to be very careful, I started at 25 foot pounds. To my amazement, the nuts turned at this low setting. So I continued in 10 pound increments, being careful to make sure I tightened evened from one to the other, until I got to 55 foot pounds.
I was amazed how much slop came out. I went from being able to swing the outdrive two inches in either direction, to only being able to swing 1/2 inch in either direction. I just did this a few minutes ago, so I obviously have not had the boat out, but I expect to see a dramatic reduction in steering corrections to maintain a staight line while idling out.
I am still going to have it replaced this year because I am a safety freak, but I highly recommend checking this before you immediately go to replacement.
Again, this may be obvious to you guys, but I never had to deal with a gimbal on a drag boat.
Scott
So I called my most trusted Mercury Master Mechanic and discussed replacing my Gimbal ring. He is more than willing to do it, and his price is extremely reaosnable...however...and this part may be is obvious to you guys...
He told me to go to the two U-bolt nuts that are exposed at the top of the outdrive, and to slowly and evenly tighten them to 55 foot pounds (tighten one a little , then move to the other, and keep going back and forth).
I did not expect much, and wanting to be very careful, I started at 25 foot pounds. To my amazement, the nuts turned at this low setting. So I continued in 10 pound increments, being careful to make sure I tightened evened from one to the other, until I got to 55 foot pounds.
I was amazed how much slop came out. I went from being able to swing the outdrive two inches in either direction, to only being able to swing 1/2 inch in either direction. I just did this a few minutes ago, so I obviously have not had the boat out, but I expect to see a dramatic reduction in steering corrections to maintain a staight line while idling out.
I am still going to have it replaced this year because I am a safety freak, but I highly recommend checking this before you immediately go to replacement.
Again, this may be obvious to you guys, but I never had to deal with a gimbal on a drag boat.
Scott
#10
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Gimbal
Hi Scott.. Same situation here... I was able to tighten up the bolts and remove some slop. After I did that my mechanic had me try to move the outdrive of a boat which had a perfect gimbal. The difference between the perfect one and mine was enough to scare me so like you I am planning on having it done next week.
Chris
Chris