Opinions On Nose Cones
#1
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Opinions On Nose Cones
Well I'm not going to be able to do and extentionb box this year so I was thinking about putting a nosecone on (Bravo 1) and maybe cutting the cavitation plate down (making it narrower) to try to get a few more MPH.
Right now I'm running 80 , and that is trimmed out almost all the way. It seems that in this position the cavitation plate would be dragging thru the water.
As far as nose cones what benifits do they offer and what brands are recommended?
Right now I'm running 80 , and that is trimmed out almost all the way. It seems that in this position the cavitation plate would be dragging thru the water.
As far as nose cones what benifits do they offer and what brands are recommended?
#2
speel chekk this fokker!
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from what i've heard above 80 is wher eyou start seeign teh benfit of them. You can reduce your prop slip at these speeds. I believe around 8- the stock bravo lower starts to reach it hydrodynamic limitations and starts to not cut teh water so well anymore. The nose cone might help. I have also heard at high speed they improve eth over handling due to the increased hydrodymics.
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#4
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Hey 26scarab,
I would be careful messing with that cavitation plate. Way back when I was running an outboard with a Merc chopper prop. It would cavitate like a bi__h when I would take off. I added a plate similiar to a whale tail and it would controll the amount of slip that the prop would have. With out the plate 6k out of the hole, with the plate it would hook at 4k.. Worked good in my situation. I have no idea what it might do in yours.. but just passin on my experience..
Oh yeah the nose cone will add speed if you need to over trim to hold the bow up. The hole that is dug in the water at 80mph with the blunt object you now have limits water to the blades of the prop. The newer lower unit designs are better than the old ones. They say that around the 80mph range it will make a difference. I have had the best luck with Hydromotive, but only because my Checkmate hull liked it..
Good luck..
Dick
I would be careful messing with that cavitation plate. Way back when I was running an outboard with a Merc chopper prop. It would cavitate like a bi__h when I would take off. I added a plate similiar to a whale tail and it would controll the amount of slip that the prop would have. With out the plate 6k out of the hole, with the plate it would hook at 4k.. Worked good in my situation. I have no idea what it might do in yours.. but just passin on my experience..
Oh yeah the nose cone will add speed if you need to over trim to hold the bow up. The hole that is dug in the water at 80mph with the blunt object you now have limits water to the blades of the prop. The newer lower unit designs are better than the old ones. They say that around the 80mph range it will make a difference. I have had the best luck with Hydromotive, but only because my Checkmate hull liked it..
Good luck..
Dick
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Got one cheap make me an offer!!!
I have one that HTM sent me to put on my boat. I was going to put it on when I got a chance to try a Imco shortie. I bought a new shortie and still have the nose cone. It has the instructions and also has a speedo hook up built on the nose cone. [email protected]
#6
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Have heard from folks who have LOST mph with the addition of a cone. On a boat that makes best speed with moderate trim, no cone may be best. If you are trimming way positive, then the "hole" theory makes sense. More leverage (stern jack or extension box) may be your best answer.
I've put cones on outboards before. Here's my advice.
If you know somebody with a cone, try to "borrow" their drive (assuming you have stock power) and try it (same gear ratio will be necessary for apples/apples test).
If no borrowing available, tack weld the cone on in three spots, use bondo for filler and go test. That way, if it sucks, you can peel the bondo off and cut the welds, remove the cone. A quick sand job on the welds and some primer and paint and you are back where you started. If the booger really does work, do the above, and remove it, strip the paint and rouch up the case and bond it properly to your drive.
My 2cents
I've put cones on outboards before. Here's my advice.
If you know somebody with a cone, try to "borrow" their drive (assuming you have stock power) and try it (same gear ratio will be necessary for apples/apples test).
If no borrowing available, tack weld the cone on in three spots, use bondo for filler and go test. That way, if it sucks, you can peel the bondo off and cut the welds, remove the cone. A quick sand job on the welds and some primer and paint and you are back where you started. If the booger really does work, do the above, and remove it, strip the paint and rouch up the case and bond it properly to your drive.
My 2cents
#8
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Hey Chuck
I put on a Hydromotive nosecone. I don't really know if it helped speed or not because I made other changes at the same time. It went on well and looks good. Figure about 3 nights work.
I put on a Hydromotive nosecone. I don't really know if it helped speed or not because I made other changes at the same time. It went on well and looks good. Figure about 3 nights work.
#9
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Nose cones work very well. The biggest problem with people losing speed is improper alignment during installation. Alignment is critical. Leading edge is a great nose cone, wpm is a good one also. If you don't want to install them yourself Leading Edge wil install them. They do a great job.
#10
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I just added two Hydromotives to my "old style" Bravos. The drives sit very low on my boat (Cafe Racer) so I've heard they should help my speed. I'll know in a few weeks..