lake speed

update. the cooler is an eddies marine chrome cooler. it is a 3" cooler and it is 20" long but it has the ps cooler built in. I am not using the cooler as a ps cooler as I have a separate cooler for the steering. the coller flows both oil and water either way and pressure tests fine. could it be too small? the cooler had oil in it but not as much as I thought would be in it. the jetting appears to be fine as the plugs are nice and brown but Hell I am going to try it. whats concerning is that it should cool down after running it but I actually have to basically shut the motor off and let it sit to see any decrease in oil temp. it will go down a little at idle but not like it did before with my old motor(622).???????????????????

Throttle Fever

Are you sure you have the oil lines plumbed right? Usually if they are wrong you will see a loss in oil pressure. Go with the simple stuff 1st, thats what usually bites us in the a$$.

Wobble

teagues offshore oil cooler is what I run

had to get a small PS cooler from Revolution Marine

I measure oi temps in the pan

makes that shiny pos 3x18 look sad

definitely v-twin oil also

if you are using a gen4 filter adapter, then that has a bypass that needs to be plugged.

I can run 5500 rpm for twenty minutes in 100* ambient with probably 85* sea temp and see max oil temp of 280 or so.

read this thread for more good info http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...-hardware.html

lake speed

I have almost too much oil psi and I just checked the lines AGAIN LOL!! I now question the adapter for the remote oil filter. I had this on my old motor which was a bowtie block I wonder if it has the bypass that needs to be plugged. I guess I will go take that off now.

lake speed

I am not sure about running the v twin synthetic in my motor since it only has about 8 hours on it.

Panther

Yes, some of the older merc adapters have a bypass valve in the adapter.

lake speed

are you talking about the adapter that bolts to the oil filter pad? if so I just checked that and it does not have a bypass. The only thing I can think is that the cooler is too small or the mains and rod bearing clearances are too tight. the motor was built by a reputable machine shop that build performance marine engines so?????? if the bearing clearances were too tight I would think the oil would cool down after a moderate run with decreased rpm but its not... this leads me back to the cooler being too small. any one want to agree

jeffswav

I use the EMI 3" combo cooller. Upgrade your oiling sytem also, canton racing makes a adaptor that is much better than stock. Convert all your oil lines and fittings to 12AN. Check out the thread on "stock oiling?". Also use a good synthetic oil, I use Amsoil.

lake speed

I already have all braided lines and an fittings but they are -10, my adapter is the canton racing version. this is a 640ci motor I have not cut any corners on any part of the build. this oil system woked fine on my other motor so???? I am not sure about running synthetic oil in a motor that only has 8 hours on it. I am not new to performance motors as I have been drag racing all my life and I even worked on mopars pro stock team but this damn thing has me perplexed.

jeffswav

I would wait till about 20 hrs before swiching to synthetic. The 10 AN lines should be fine, make sure you have the correct pressure valve. Remove the one in the center. There are two different part numbers for the adaptor depending on the version of BB, make sure you have the correct one. Good luck tracking it down.