Loose Screw fix?
#1
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I have continually had a proglem with the screws that hold my bolsters down coming loose and am frankly getting tired of tightening them all the time. T was thinking of drilling the holes bigger and putting lag bolts in instead. Does anyone know of a permanent fiw that will still allow the bolster to be removed if needed?
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Those screws are big time undersized. The are loosening because the holes are stripped out. The deciding factor is wether or not you have acess to the area below. If you do have access, then drill the holes out and use some 1/4" button head bolts and lock nuts. Depending on the floor's construction you may want to fabricate a backer plate from some aluminum stock.
My guess is that you don't have access. The question why not? It's proably because the fuel tank is there. That creates a problem with using a lag bolt, because the bolt will be too long. You could try a wing anchor like what is used for drywall, but they don't come in stainless, require a huge hole, and need several inches of clearance below the floor anyways. They make these threaded inserts that can be installed on the underside of the floor. These would allow you to then use a standard bolt without a nut. But they must be installed from the backside. I'm thinking that you are going to be stuck with a screw. My suggestion is that you try a #12 pan head SS sheet metal screw. Drill the hole out and see how thick the floor is and if you have any obstructions below it. Get the screw so it's just slightly longer than the floor+bracket. Before you run the screw in, inject the hole full of silicone (or even better, epoxy), coat the screw with the stuff and then run it in. I'd also recommend increasing the number of screws holding each bracket down. 5 would be a good starting point.
Now if you find that the flooring comes out black, well then you have a whole different problem...
My guess is that you don't have access. The question why not? It's proably because the fuel tank is there. That creates a problem with using a lag bolt, because the bolt will be too long. You could try a wing anchor like what is used for drywall, but they don't come in stainless, require a huge hole, and need several inches of clearance below the floor anyways. They make these threaded inserts that can be installed on the underside of the floor. These would allow you to then use a standard bolt without a nut. But they must be installed from the backside. I'm thinking that you are going to be stuck with a screw. My suggestion is that you try a #12 pan head SS sheet metal screw. Drill the hole out and see how thick the floor is and if you have any obstructions below it. Get the screw so it's just slightly longer than the floor+bracket. Before you run the screw in, inject the hole full of silicone (or even better, epoxy), coat the screw with the stuff and then run it in. I'd also recommend increasing the number of screws holding each bracket down. 5 would be a good starting point.
Now if you find that the flooring comes out black, well then you have a whole different problem...
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Is there any way to epoxy a stud in? I assume there is no access from below.
I have seen "bolts" with a lag on one end and machine threads on the other. Could you use one of these, SST all thread or as SST bolt to use for studs? You could cap it with one of those hemispherical nuts that cover up the threads and lock it down with locktite or something.
I am curious how you address this, because I anticipate having similar problems in the Magnum.
I'm still working on the fairing design. Hopefully, I will get a quote back tomorrow. If they can't do it for a decent price, I'll get with you about cutting down the original windshield like we talked about.
Good luck.
I have seen "bolts" with a lag on one end and machine threads on the other. Could you use one of these, SST all thread or as SST bolt to use for studs? You could cap it with one of those hemispherical nuts that cover up the threads and lock it down with locktite or something.
I am curious how you address this, because I anticipate having similar problems in the Magnum.
I'm still working on the fairing design. Hopefully, I will get a quote back tomorrow. If they can't do it for a decent price, I'll get with you about cutting down the original windshield like we talked about.
Good luck.
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BTW-having the carpeting under the bracket will allow it to squirm around and loosen the screws. You may want to consider cutting the carpeting out so the bracket rests directly on the floor.
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THRU BOLT IT!!! If you don't have access then get some covers and cut a hole in floor. Use good stainless fasteners with nylon lock nuts and large "fender washers" against bottom of floor. I had the same problem and this is how I fixed it. 4 years later and I have never tightened them again.
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BRS can you get to the under side to through bolt it? if not I can fax you two pages from the west system user manual and they have two ways of takeing care of the problem useing epoxy!Cord had a good point too.Wildfire can fax you a copy?James
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Okay guys here is what I have found in ansure to your suggestions to help narrow it dowm a little. Cord you are right on the money about no acess and the gas tanks being right underneath. I pulled a screw out and stuck a small wire in the hole to see how much room I have underneath and it is not much. Only about an inch and a half from the top of the bolster bracket. The screws are already #12 and there are 5 of them. I replaced the catpet a couple of years ago and there was no discoloration in the floor nor is there any soft spots. The floor is encapsulated. If I cut acess holes I would not be able to get at the bolts to through bolt unless I cut one hole next to each bolt and I don't think swiss cheese floor would be worth it. James I would like to see the info you have you can fax it to 586-786-9530 c/o Dave. Wildfire I will post a couple of pix of the faring so you can see what I was talking about before.