MER Performance

That job would be easier by pulling the engines, with less chance of messing things up and making a mess of your boat. I would charge you alot more for in the boat cylinder head work of that level.

Young Performance

I'm with Mark on pulling them out. The vast majority of them I will not do in the boat. There are only a handful that can safely be done in the boat. If it was just changing the springs and the heads did not have to come off, then they could maybe stay in the boat. But to pull the heads, I would take them out. Not only can you do a better job since everything is accessible, but there is a much less chance of messing up. Hauling all of the parts over the side is a great opportunity to scratch the paint or rip the seats. I wrap the entire boat up with a heavy plastic and lay down blankets, etc. but accidents happen.
As far as parts, I would replace the springs, retainers and locks, seals, lifters and gaskets. I would just inspect the valves, rockers and pushrods and replace as nessecary. Obviously, the heads will need a valve job. I would also check the condition of the head deck surface and surface them as needed.
As far as labor, you are looking at 5 hours to pull each of them. Probably 3-4 to pull each apart. About 1-2 hours to clean everything up. About 3-4 to go back together and 5 hours to go back in. This is per engine. That is 17-20 hours per engine. You have just over $1000 per engine in parts and valve job, a little more if they need to be surfaced. Throw in a couple hours to test run. Some shops may charge a few less hours, but their shop rate is much higher than mine. I am at 65/hr, so that is $1100-$1200 in labor. So, you should be between $4500-$5000 by the time it is done. I do not think it should go pass 5K unless there are some unforseen problems when the engine gets opened up. Being that they run so well, I doubt that would be the case. However, plan for a little more because there are always some things that you should do or want to do once the engines are out(ie, touch up paint, impellers, starter,replace bilge pump, etc) Sometimes it just makes sense to do some things when the engines are out and everything is accessible. For example, it may take 1-2 hours to change the impeller in the boat, but it will take about 15 minutes with the engine on the ground. Just keep that in mind and plan some extra cash for misc. BS.
Hope this helps, Eddie.

CB-BLR

I would listen to Eddie. He is a good guy.

Chris

MarkDonzi

Hey Chris,

I remember you talking about the whipple PCM upgrade. Did you have tghis done to your motor? Good Results? Do you have a contact at Whipple?

Thanks, Mark

MarkDonzi

Thanks Guys for all your advice, I have been getting some pricing that seems to be in line with whats been discussed here. I'm doing the valve job to ensure the boat continues to perform well. I've been told after 400 hours the valve train can become a problem and dropping something into the bottom will cost a lot more to fix.

I've heard both sides regarding R & R the motors, with the staggered setup and removing the engine hatch there is a LOT of room, but as one said "SH&T Happens" which can cause some damage.

My thoughts on the valves themselves were if I'm going though the trouble of removing the heads to inspect them
then why not replace them all. A small flaw that goes unnoticed could cause a huge problem later.

Thanks Again for all the pointers!

Mark

Uncle Dave

Agreed, I don't think you could go wrong with that advice.


UD

CB-BLR

Mark,

I have done the Stage II Whipple upgrade to my 600sci. My boat was originally doing between 80-82 mph consistantly. With the upgrade, my boat now does a consistant 90-92 mph with a best of 93.3 mph. The kit consists of a re-programmed PCM, a water re-route, and a smaller pulley. I have aproximately 35 hours on the boat since the upgrade with zero problems. I was able to prop up from a 28 to a 32, and now love my midrange cruise speed. The occasional top end blast is now a hoot!

My contact at Whipple is Dustin Whipple. He is a little hard to get a hold of in the summer, but extremely helpful, and an all around good guy.

Hope this helps,

Chris

p.s. I am doing the Stage IV upgrade this winter

MarkDonzi

Chris,

How many hours were on your motor when you did the upgrade?

Thanks, Mark

CB-BLR

Mark,

I had about 22 hours on the motor when I did the upgrade.

Chris

Young Performance

Thanks guys. It's good to know that someone is actually reading what I type.


I think you are on the right track. I could not agree more with spending the money to just replace the valves while you are there. They may or may not need it, but for $500 an engine, it is worth the piece of mind. Feel free to contact me if there is anything I can do to help or if you have some questions that need answers. I will do my best to help in any way I can.
Eddie