GM Base marine 502 Valve question.
10-27-2009, 07:25 PM
#21
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Back to the valves.
I just took a valve out of a head and the magnet only stuck on the TIP. Do you need a super strong magnet? I just used a telescopic one used to things you drop in hard to get places.
Yes I did check out the website. The prices seems to good to be true. I am in the market for two.
I just took a valve out of a head and the magnet only stuck on the TIP. Do you need a super strong magnet? I just used a telescopic one used to things you drop in hard to get places.
Yes I did check out the website. The prices seems to good to be true. I am in the market for two.
10-27-2009, 07:56 PM
#22
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-2L-...item56365be1db
http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=3511
Last edited by Rockfish71; 10-27-2009 at 08:02 PM.
10-28-2009, 06:38 AM
#23
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Here is shipping desc. 355lbs sounds a little on the light side.
Engine weighs 355lbs fully packaged and crated.
Shipping $180-$350 depending on location of
delivery, to be paid by winning bidder
10-28-2009, 07:34 AM
#24
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The valve stem is more than likely 4140 steel. Friction welded or stun welded to the inconel head. Stainless wouldnt work well in a valve guide because its a softer material. The 300 series stainless isnt magnetic. It has very little carbon. The 400 series stainless has some carbon so a magnet will stick and its a little stronger. But its still a softer weaker material than carbon steels. Just a little machine shop info from a friendly machinest. Bobby
10-31-2009, 08:07 AM
#26
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11-24-2009, 06:30 PM
#27
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If you are running a gen 5 or 6 there are two bypass valves installed in the engine block one for the filter bypass and the other one is for the gm factory remote oil cooler witch is up inside the block where the threads for the remote adapter would bolt up to the block remove the one in the middle. where the adapter is and the one offset needs to be changed to a 30 psi or plugged so all the oil will go throught the filter and cooler.
Dont run the engine untill you have the right bypass valve or you will be removing the engine due to you buring it up like a lot of other guys have done. I spent a lot of research on my set up with the right bypass valve install I'm only running a filter on the block and I'm motioring the oil temp then going from there run a good filter like napa 1061 wix do not run fram they are junk.
Do a search here on bypass valves if you would like to talk to me about the whole set up give me a call @ 734 383-0730 ask for Dale
Dont run the engine untill you have the right bypass valve or you will be removing the engine due to you buring it up like a lot of other guys have done. I spent a lot of research on my set up with the right bypass valve install I'm only running a filter on the block and I'm motioring the oil temp then going from there run a good filter like napa 1061 wix do not run fram they are junk.
Do a search here on bypass valves if you would like to talk to me about the whole set up give me a call @ 734 383-0730 ask for Dale
So when i remove all the stuff from my old 502 mag for my new 502 mag what excectaly do i need to take out for valves? Where is the one by block filter boss, is it in the middle of threads, how do i remove it?, im going to reuse the 502 remote filter so i should be god there, but i just need to know that i have all the stuff i need before i sell my old 502.
11-25-2009, 07:16 AM
#28
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Ok, here's the deal I ended up with and info I found out, GM marine engines carry NO warranty from GM, any warranty is from whoever you purchase from, and that could become a joke as I found out when I had a issue on a pair of new GM 454 marine engines. if I had it to do over again I would have bought GM crate engines from GM performance parts, made the changes to marine use, and as long as you have a vin # you can use you get a 3 year warranty from GM. Rob
12-01-2009, 11:27 AM
#29
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If you are running a gen 5 or 6 there are two bypass valves installed in the engine block one for the filter bypass and the other one is for the gm factory remote oil cooler witch is up inside the block where the threads for the remote adapter would bolt up to the block remove the one in the middle. where the adapter is and the one offset needs to be changed to a 30 psi or plugged so all the oil will go throught the filter and cooler.
Dont run the engine untill you have the right bypass valve or you will be removing the engine due to you buring it up like a lot of other guys have done. I spent a lot of research on my set up with the right bypass valve install I'm only running a filter on the block and I'm motioring the oil temp then going from there run a good filter like napa 1061 wix do not run fram they are junk.
Do a search here on bypass valves if you would like to talk to me about the whole set up give me a call @ 734 383-0730 ask for Dale
Dont run the engine untill you have the right bypass valve or you will be removing the engine due to you buring it up like a lot of other guys have done. I spent a lot of research on my set up with the right bypass valve install I'm only running a filter on the block and I'm motioring the oil temp then going from there run a good filter like napa 1061 wix do not run fram they are junk.
Do a search here on bypass valves if you would like to talk to me about the whole set up give me a call @ 734 383-0730 ask for Dale
12-02-2009, 07:18 AM
#30
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