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Another Holley Idle Thread - I'm at wit's end!

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Another Holley Idle Thread - I'm at wit's end!

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Old 06-20-2010, 10:36 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Mbam
You need to open up the idle feed restrictors. Take a look at that Holley book and find out which of the passages they are. Get a set of small number drills and a pin vise (this is a holder so you can twist the drills by hand). Go .005 at a time (with testing in between). Your goal is to have a stable idle with the mixture screws open about 3/4. You will know if you have it right when you keep opening the screws and the rpm falls off. Listen to MC on drilling the throttle plates.
Thanks, Marc. I think that's the next step. I spent all day on the lake yesterday. After all the suggestions here, I am 100 times better off than I was. Still a few little hiccups that most might not even notice, but they are there. After drilling some very small holes in the plates, moving up to bigger squirters, and readjusting everything the settings are more inline with what I would call "normal". .050 of the transfer slot showing, and about 1 turn out on the idle screws. The transition off idle, and in the midrange with the big squirters is great. no more hesitation in the transition. It still coughs occasionally when it comes off plane, but it's not every time, and it didn't stall completely. If I feather it down, no issues at all.

Thanks for all the help, I'm a much happier camper now
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Old 06-20-2010, 02:38 PM
  #32  
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Turbo,
IMO, the 850 carb size is fine.
+1 on checking the throttle blades in relation to the transfer slots. Set both the primary and secondary TB's at .020 -.030 and then adjust both equally to obtain the target RPM.
Ben
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Old 06-20-2010, 09:42 PM
  #33  
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Here is an option to add air without drilling your throttle blades. This picture is of a Dominator but the concept is the same. You add air in varying amounts with air bleed/jet change. If you need or don't like the results, you can just plug it with brass screw. We drilled and counter sunk our extra air bleeds using a step-drill, the threads are a 10-32. Once you drill and tap, you have a infinite in the boat means of adjusting the air without getting out of the tight range for the ideal transfer slot settings.
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