Servicing Question?
05-03-2002, 09:46 AM
#22
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Bajaboss,
The Wal Mart thing crossed my mind, but it was 9 am on Thursday morning when I realized that I was going to have to do something. It was going to be that night before I could make it to Wal Mart and see if they had one. Didn't want to take a chance and not make it to the lake this weekend so I overnighted one.
Fevermike,
I just put some new exhaust hose on my boat bypassing some silencing canisters that Wellcraft put on from the factory. (I don't have any kind of switchable exhaust) I was running the motor to check this install and oil pressure/level from my recent service I did.
I don't think the impeller is bad though. I was actually able to get water through the exhaust on one try. Actually had a very good flow, enough to bog motor a little. I guess this thing needs primed really good like someone said????
When I get the pump, should I just trim up the outdrive and pump in around 2-3 qts and quit? Or will I know when it's full? By the way, I am using Merc High Perf lube.
Thanks a million for the help guys. If anyone needs any questions answered about truck accessories or towing just ask. I own a truck accessory store and would be more than willing to help.
Buck
#183
The Wal Mart thing crossed my mind, but it was 9 am on Thursday morning when I realized that I was going to have to do something. It was going to be that night before I could make it to Wal Mart and see if they had one. Didn't want to take a chance and not make it to the lake this weekend so I overnighted one.
Fevermike,
I just put some new exhaust hose on my boat bypassing some silencing canisters that Wellcraft put on from the factory. (I don't have any kind of switchable exhaust) I was running the motor to check this install and oil pressure/level from my recent service I did.
I don't think the impeller is bad though. I was actually able to get water through the exhaust on one try. Actually had a very good flow, enough to bog motor a little. I guess this thing needs primed really good like someone said????
When I get the pump, should I just trim up the outdrive and pump in around 2-3 qts and quit? Or will I know when it's full? By the way, I am using Merc High Perf lube.
Thanks a million for the help guys. If anyone needs any questions answered about truck accessories or towing just ask. I own a truck accessory store and would be more than willing to help.
Buck
#183
05-03-2002, 10:01 AM
#23
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You need to fill the drive from the bottom(behind the prop) and remove the top screw in the side. When the fluid starts coming out the top,put the plug back in and then remove the pump and put that plug back in. Then check your resovoir and make sure its is to the proper level. There is usually a mark on the jar.
As far as your water concern you seem to have it figured out. Just a note you do not have impellers in the drive,you have a sea pump and a water pump,that is if the motor is not running a crossover.
As far as your water concern you seem to have it figured out. Just a note you do not have impellers in the drive,you have a sea pump and a water pump,that is if the motor is not running a crossover.
05-03-2002, 01:33 PM
#24
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Fill it to the top!!
My younger bro/me borrowed a friends boat and thought we would do her a favor & change the outdrive oil. We were use to doing outboards & squeezed in about 2 tubes of lube. Went out on the water about 1 mile and that baby siezed up tighter than a drum. Lesson learned, I/O's take alot more outdrive lube than an outboard does and DON'T underfill it!
05-03-2002, 02:16 PM
#25
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Buck,
There is something that crossed my mind today. You said that it was taking a long time for the outdrive to drain? Try taking the resevoir bottle off from the hose at the motor and empty the bottle and clean it out. Last year when I went to change mine the bottle was clogged up. I just got the boat last year so it was my first time changing the outdrive oil. I sloshed gasoline around in the bottle a few times to get the sludge out then dried it out really good and put it back on. If the resevoir bottle is clogged up, it isn't doing any good having it there as the fluid level in the drive could drop and nothing will flow out of the resevoir into the drive. Once that is done, pump the fluid from the bottom of the drive like everyone else said. Pump the fluid in with the top screw removed, the one on the side near the top of the drive until the fluid starts coming out. Put the top screw back in and continue pumping the fluid up into the resevoir bottle until it hits the full mark and you are done. You will need to remove the cap from the resevoir bottle when pumping or it will build up too much pressure. Put the bottom plug back in, double check the level in the bottle and if need be, top it off from inside the boat. You really need to make sure that bottle isn't plugged up with sludge though, especially if this is the first time you have changed the outdrive fluid on your boat.
Hope this helps...
Ted
There is something that crossed my mind today. You said that it was taking a long time for the outdrive to drain? Try taking the resevoir bottle off from the hose at the motor and empty the bottle and clean it out. Last year when I went to change mine the bottle was clogged up. I just got the boat last year so it was my first time changing the outdrive oil. I sloshed gasoline around in the bottle a few times to get the sludge out then dried it out really good and put it back on. If the resevoir bottle is clogged up, it isn't doing any good having it there as the fluid level in the drive could drop and nothing will flow out of the resevoir into the drive. Once that is done, pump the fluid from the bottom of the drive like everyone else said. Pump the fluid in with the top screw removed, the one on the side near the top of the drive until the fluid starts coming out. Put the top screw back in and continue pumping the fluid up into the resevoir bottle until it hits the full mark and you are done. You will need to remove the cap from the resevoir bottle when pumping or it will build up too much pressure. Put the bottom plug back in, double check the level in the bottle and if need be, top it off from inside the boat. You really need to make sure that bottle isn't plugged up with sludge though, especially if this is the first time you have changed the outdrive fluid on your boat.
Hope this helps...
Ted
05-03-2002, 06:07 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
BoatUS came through for me and the pump showed up today. Whew!
BajaBoss252,
I think you explained everything pretty good. Answered any questions I was thinking of for refilling. I have 3 qts of lube, should be enough.
I'm pretty sure my resorvior is not plugged. It seems to flow pretty good. I had to top it off a couple of times after my service last fall, so I'm sure it's flowing good.
Thanks a million guys!!!!!
I'll post if I have any problems.
Buck
#183
BajaBoss252,
I think you explained everything pretty good. Answered any questions I was thinking of for refilling. I have 3 qts of lube, should be enough.
I'm pretty sure my resorvior is not plugged. It seems to flow pretty good. I had to top it off a couple of times after my service last fall, so I'm sure it's flowing good.
Thanks a million guys!!!!!
I'll post if I have any problems.
Buck
#183
05-04-2002, 06:58 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
I'll give you guys the run down.......
Good news.......Got the pump, was able to get lube in outdrive with no problems at all. Problem solved.
Bad news........I think I figured out half the reason I couldn't get any water to the engine. Took it to nearby lake to test everything today. Got hot fairly quick. Took the hose off the Sea Pump and pieces of the impeller fell out of it. DAMN!!!!!!
What part # do I need to order to replace this thing? It's a 1996 502 mag mpi.
How hard is it to change?
I'm learning guys.....hang with me.
Buck
#183
Good news.......Got the pump, was able to get lube in outdrive with no problems at all. Problem solved.
Bad news........I think I figured out half the reason I couldn't get any water to the engine. Took it to nearby lake to test everything today. Got hot fairly quick. Took the hose off the Sea Pump and pieces of the impeller fell out of it. DAMN!!!!!!
What part # do I need to order to replace this thing? It's a 1996 502 mag mpi.
How hard is it to change?
I'm learning guys.....hang with me.
Buck
#183
05-04-2002, 08:15 PM
#28
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
Originally posted by US1 Fountain
Might want to recheck your impellor if you had any question of water supply. It only takes a few seconds of running dry before the impellor is worthless.
Might want to recheck your impellor if you had any question of water supply. It only takes a few seconds of running dry before the impellor is worthless.
When will you guys listen to me?
You can buy the repair kit from any Merc dealer for $90. I did just notice this morning that CP Performanse has the same thing for $70. The kit includes a new 1 peice plastic housing, impellor, SS wear plate. It s really not hard to change on a single engine boat. About an hrs time.
PT# 46-807151A14
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05-04-2002, 10:44 PM
#29
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Nobody has told you why it is of paramount importance to fill from the bottom...
If you fill from the top, you trap a big air pocket in the drive. As you run, the lube and air pocket will heat up, expanding the air dramatically. This, in turn, will blow the lid off your reservoir and will spray your engine compartment with nice green lube (stinky and messy). If you are running hard, the top bearing will starve for lube and you will lunch the bearing and the top of the vertical shaft will tilt and you will tear the bearing bosses out of your drive housing. This is significantly more expensive than a simple rebuild, it will require a new upper.
Also, you mentioned that you planned to fill with the drive trimmed "up". Wrong. Do it with the drive neutral-to-slightly "in". This will let the air out ahead of the incoming lube. If you only have a small amount of air trapped, it will be okay and the air will make its way to the reservoir and the lube level will seem low after a hard run where the lube replaced the air bubble.
happy boating.
M
If you fill from the top, you trap a big air pocket in the drive. As you run, the lube and air pocket will heat up, expanding the air dramatically. This, in turn, will blow the lid off your reservoir and will spray your engine compartment with nice green lube (stinky and messy). If you are running hard, the top bearing will starve for lube and you will lunch the bearing and the top of the vertical shaft will tilt and you will tear the bearing bosses out of your drive housing. This is significantly more expensive than a simple rebuild, it will require a new upper.
Also, you mentioned that you planned to fill with the drive trimmed "up". Wrong. Do it with the drive neutral-to-slightly "in". This will let the air out ahead of the incoming lube. If you only have a small amount of air trapped, it will be okay and the air will make its way to the reservoir and the lube level will seem low after a hard run where the lube replaced the air bubble.
happy boating.
M
05-04-2002, 10:46 PM
#30
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Thread Starter
I know, I know, I know....(embarassed)
Is it best to purchase the whole repair kit? For some reason I thought someone told me that this was about a $20 repair. Not complaining though. Whatever it takes I'll do.
If I purchase the complete kit, can I purchase another impeller by itself to have just in case?
Oh yeah, almost forgot. What part number do I need for a fuel filter. Figure I'll go ahead and change that while I'm in there.
Buck
#183
Is it best to purchase the whole repair kit? For some reason I thought someone told me that this was about a $20 repair. Not complaining though. Whatever it takes I'll do.
If I purchase the complete kit, can I purchase another impeller by itself to have just in case?
Oh yeah, almost forgot. What part number do I need for a fuel filter. Figure I'll go ahead and change that while I'm in there.
Buck
#183
