I just had the gears changed
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
I just had the gears changed
In my bravo 1. Went from 1.36 to the original 1.5. First time out and after a few minutes of running, I could hardly get it out of forward. Pulled drive off and checked operation of the cable and dry shift action of the drive. Both seemed fine. Carefully put the drive back on and made sure the cable went in correctly and the same thing happened again. Seems that I can dry shift it fine on the trailer, but hard as hell at idle. Anybody got any ideas?
#2
Registered
Hey Brad,
Hows it been going? The only insight I can give you on this problem is that, and you probably know this already, the drive is not designed to shift while the engine is not running. When you say dry shift on the trailer is the engine running or not? The drive should be difficult or near impossible to shift while not running. If is easy to shift there may be a problem with the shift yolk and detent ball inside the drive. Its under the inspection cover at the back of the drive.
If you have been shifting it without the engine running you can bend or break the drive cable. You can also break or bend out of adjustment the mechanism that connects the drive cable with the shift cable from the helm.
These are some simple things that come to mind. You are probably are aware of them all.
When you changed gears did you have to go into the top of the drive where the clutch cones are?
By the way I have the big Mercruiser service manual for the Bravo drive. If you need anything from it let me know. I can copy and fax to you.
Drop me a line when you get a chance and fill me in on your progress with the boat. We just bought a new boat!
Ron
[email protected]
Hows it been going? The only insight I can give you on this problem is that, and you probably know this already, the drive is not designed to shift while the engine is not running. When you say dry shift on the trailer is the engine running or not? The drive should be difficult or near impossible to shift while not running. If is easy to shift there may be a problem with the shift yolk and detent ball inside the drive. Its under the inspection cover at the back of the drive.
If you have been shifting it without the engine running you can bend or break the drive cable. You can also break or bend out of adjustment the mechanism that connects the drive cable with the shift cable from the helm.
These are some simple things that come to mind. You are probably are aware of them all.
When you changed gears did you have to go into the top of the drive where the clutch cones are?
By the way I have the big Mercruiser service manual for the Bravo drive. If you need anything from it let me know. I can copy and fax to you.
Drop me a line when you get a chance and fill me in on your progress with the boat. We just bought a new boat!
Ron
[email protected]
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Never did use a smaller prop. Went with many advice back to 1.5 gears to get the motor in it's power band. Run's like a raped ape now!
RJCardinal,
I thought it was a little strange when I could shift it without engine running. Never could do that before. I'm a little woried that I might have already damaged cable by having to use so much force to get it in and out of gear just to get it back on the trailer. I'm pulling the drive off and taking it to the "doctor" saturday morning. I had a local change the gears, but I should have taken it to the MAN. It's a long haul to Rowlett though.
What boat did you buy? I'm going down to your neck of the woods the weekend of the 11th. We're leaving the night of the 8th. I don't think my drive will be fixed by then so I doubt I bring the boat with me.
RJCardinal,
I thought it was a little strange when I could shift it without engine running. Never could do that before. I'm a little woried that I might have already damaged cable by having to use so much force to get it in and out of gear just to get it back on the trailer. I'm pulling the drive off and taking it to the "doctor" saturday morning. I had a local change the gears, but I should have taken it to the MAN. It's a long haul to Rowlett though.
What boat did you buy? I'm going down to your neck of the woods the weekend of the 11th. We're leaving the night of the 8th. I don't think my drive will be fixed by then so I doubt I bring the boat with me.
#5
Registered
I agree....
For motors that like to run in the 5800 rpm plus range the 1.5 ratio is the best choice as long as you can prop it. Some of the crazy HP guys are making these days don't warrant 1.5 ratios because there isn't enough prop available to hold them down. How much HP did your 540 make? Are you using a Bravo prop? I run a 29 Spinelli on my 210 Sport. I am currently getting ready to try some other props since Spinelli closed his doors. I need a back up plan in case something bad happens. The Hammer has a similar hull to the 210 so I may try whatever type of prop you are using first. I turn the 29" 6300 rpm through 1.5 gears.
#8
Registered
97.8 MPH on GPS is what I have seen at 6300 RPM. Approximately 15% slip. Spinelli props tend to have higher slip factors than merc props. I haven't run a merc prop on my boat since I installed the current motor. I run a 2" shotrt bravo and have a hard time getting on plane with 3 blade props. A few years ago with much less motor I tried a 25 Mirage and could barely get on plane with the short drive. I turned it 6000 rpm and radared at 87 MPH, which is only 8% slip. It would be interesting to see what a labbed 29 Mirage would do on my boat now. Having the GPS on board will make trying new props fun and easy. I would say with 865 HP you should be easily in the triple digits. I would bet 6000 plus rpm on the marage once completely wound out. Pretty awesome!!!