Water pump question
05-07-2002, 01:32 PM
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Water pump question
I have had a leak in my boat for the last two years and finally found it was the water pump. It would do just about a cup full no matter how long I was out. With this thread Hustler 26 replied in part with the following:
http://offshoreonly.com/forum/showth...ght=water+pump
"If you ignore this first warning and continue to operate the pump, You run the risk of the shaft siezing and doing serious damage to the motor or boat."
Is this applicable to the water pump at the front of the engine like a normal vehicle or is it the belt driven raw water pump on the side. I always thought with the front water pump, the longer you leave it on the engine the noisier it will get and start the "grinding" sound you get with an automobile. Am I stretching my luck (engine siezure) by not replacing this right away and is there a rebuild kit for the engine water pumps? Your advice/opinions are definately welcome!
http://offshoreonly.com/forum/showth...ght=water+pump
"If you ignore this first warning and continue to operate the pump, You run the risk of the shaft siezing and doing serious damage to the motor or boat."
Is this applicable to the water pump at the front of the engine like a normal vehicle or is it the belt driven raw water pump on the side. I always thought with the front water pump, the longer you leave it on the engine the noisier it will get and start the "grinding" sound you get with an automobile. Am I stretching my luck (engine siezure) by not replacing this right away and is there a rebuild kit for the engine water pumps? Your advice/opinions are definately welcome!
05-07-2002, 03:34 PM
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They're talking about the front of engine mounted circulating pump.
Yes, you're rolling the dice every time you take it out. The bearing could sieze causing the pully to stop, the belt to break and the engine to overheat.
Got a tow line handy?
Rebuild it yourself?
You'll spend less time and agrivation if you install a new or rebuilt one.
If you attempt to rebuild it yourself you could find that the housing or shaft is not salvageable, in which case you'll have to replace whole assembly anyhow.
I'm in the same position myself. My pump is leaking, I can rock the pully with my hand and the bearing is starting to make intermittent noises. Time to replace it but can't spend the $90.00 they want for a new/rebuilt one.
Yes, you're rolling the dice every time you take it out. The bearing could sieze causing the pully to stop, the belt to break and the engine to overheat.
Got a tow line handy?
Rebuild it yourself?
You'll spend less time and agrivation if you install a new or rebuilt one.
If you attempt to rebuild it yourself you could find that the housing or shaft is not salvageable, in which case you'll have to replace whole assembly anyhow.
I'm in the same position myself. My pump is leaking, I can rock the pully with my hand and the bearing is starting to make intermittent noises. Time to replace it but can't spend the $90.00 they want for a new/rebuilt one.
05-08-2002, 11:02 AM
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Dave32,
See my post on this very same topic. I'm trying to figure out if it’s a Mercury problem with are cooling systems. Two things kill circulating pumps, old age and way too high water pressure. If you don't have pressure gauges on your boat a way of seeing excessive pressure would be to look at the large hose going into the circulating pump. At wot, if your able to look at that hose it will be expanding greatly, also water will be spraying out of the weep hole.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forum/sh...threadid=23910
Luvoffshore,
Sorry to step on your post. Once water gets to the bearing there is always a chance for failure. The smart thing to do is replace the pump. They are available cheaper from Napa and http://www.amarket.com/index.htm
I'm not sure if your pump fails if the sea water pump would supply the engine with enough water. Maybe some engine guys could enlighten us. If the pump seizes and there isn't enough water flow you would overheat. As long as you shut down early there wouldn't be any damage to the engine.
Dan
See my post on this very same topic. I'm trying to figure out if it’s a Mercury problem with are cooling systems. Two things kill circulating pumps, old age and way too high water pressure. If you don't have pressure gauges on your boat a way of seeing excessive pressure would be to look at the large hose going into the circulating pump. At wot, if your able to look at that hose it will be expanding greatly, also water will be spraying out of the weep hole.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forum/sh...threadid=23910
Luvoffshore,
Sorry to step on your post. Once water gets to the bearing there is always a chance for failure. The smart thing to do is replace the pump. They are available cheaper from Napa and http://www.amarket.com/index.htm
I'm not sure if your pump fails if the sea water pump would supply the engine with enough water. Maybe some engine guys could enlighten us. If the pump seizes and there isn't enough water flow you would overheat. As long as you shut down early there wouldn't be any damage to the engine.
Dan
Last edited by candyman35; 05-08-2002 at 11:05 AM.
05-08-2002, 09:43 PM
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For the last three years, everytime I took my boat out there would be a small amount (a cup or two) of water in the bilge when I was done. I could never find a leak. When I swapped the 454 out for the 502 this winter I found a white and gray build up (lime) coming out of the weep hole and running down the intake hose. I went to Napa on a Sunday afternoon to buy a new water pump since they were the only place open. They wanted $198 bucks. I asked the guy if he could do better on the price and he gave it to me for $165. That is about the going rate for a Marine BBC pump. The car pumps are cheaper but they don't have the stainless steel internal parts. They don't need to because the antifreeze in a car will stop rust from forming. You could go that way but I don't think the pump will last very long, even if you are in fresh water. Good luck.
05-09-2002, 09:16 AM
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Just a bit of information... Stainless Marine, and several other manufacturers, provide a permanent solution to this problem...
A few bucks more than the replacement H2O pump and the issue is resolved... A closed cooling system will not function without some sort of circulation pump but raw water systems are a piece of cake... The last time I spoke to the vendor I believe that they had reduced the price below $200 but don't quote me on that one... A different belt and possible plumbing on the headers plus less weight, more HP, ease of installation and the end of buying pumps... Hope this helps...
Karl
A few bucks more than the replacement H2O pump and the issue is resolved... A closed cooling system will not function without some sort of circulation pump but raw water systems are a piece of cake... The last time I spoke to the vendor I believe that they had reduced the price below $200 but don't quote me on that one... A different belt and possible plumbing on the headers plus less weight, more HP, ease of installation and the end of buying pumps... Hope this helps...
Karl
