question for dustin whipple
#11
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Putting the O2 sensors in the elbows is pretty easy. Just have to weld the inner and outer pipes and then weld the bung inplace.
Bayley you are so right on the ECU's. Best if money permits to go aftermarket ECU's and wide band O2 sensor and an On-Board-Dyno to measure HP and TQ so you can adjust the fuel and timing curves.
Bayley you are so right on the ECU's. Best if money permits to go aftermarket ECU's and wide band O2 sensor and an On-Board-Dyno to measure HP and TQ so you can adjust the fuel and timing curves.
#12
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Bayley, Dean, Cobra:
My ECU's were reprogrammed by Dustin, we've gone thru several re-programs to get where we're real close to perfect. Like you all said, how sweet would it be to have it programmable on board!! Thus far, the best all around performance, was accomplished by real time programming of the ECU's by Dustins calibrtation guru, Scott Kachon. He rode with us in the boat for several hours and literally dialed in exactly what was needed at every RPM level from idle to WOT. Interesting note: When I switched from 1.50 gear to 1.35 the existing programming wouldn't work as well. We had to reprogram to take into aco**** the higher loads at lower RPMS.
On the new engines, we ran several hours on the dyno with 4 different ECU programs. We would run, send it back with recommendations, get it back, run it, send it back with more requests. The final result was worth it and hopefully gives a better std. calibration for anyone in a larger, 9,000 plus pound hull. We had a trying time getting both a decent lean idle and a not too lean top end.
Bayley, we'll definitely be racing at Detroit. My team had the boat completely apart over the winter, as well as our turbine inventory. They made some changes in the hull to loosen her up a bit, particularly off the turns. The stance is also wider and the dyhedral/anhedrals were shallowed a bit. Should be a great season, with 12 consistent teams at each race, and possibly 14 at a few races. Bayley, if you get there, page me from the pit gate and I'll get you in to see the boat up close.
As to the sensors, everything is std. Merc set up, 2000 model year. As Marty said, welding in the 02 bungs is not a problem in the waterjacket, just need to weld both the inside and outside so by necessity the bung will be close to an opening. Ours are about 2 inches in from the collector/tail pipe joint.
Take care!
My ECU's were reprogrammed by Dustin, we've gone thru several re-programs to get where we're real close to perfect. Like you all said, how sweet would it be to have it programmable on board!! Thus far, the best all around performance, was accomplished by real time programming of the ECU's by Dustins calibrtation guru, Scott Kachon. He rode with us in the boat for several hours and literally dialed in exactly what was needed at every RPM level from idle to WOT. Interesting note: When I switched from 1.50 gear to 1.35 the existing programming wouldn't work as well. We had to reprogram to take into aco**** the higher loads at lower RPMS.
On the new engines, we ran several hours on the dyno with 4 different ECU programs. We would run, send it back with recommendations, get it back, run it, send it back with more requests. The final result was worth it and hopefully gives a better std. calibration for anyone in a larger, 9,000 plus pound hull. We had a trying time getting both a decent lean idle and a not too lean top end.
Bayley, we'll definitely be racing at Detroit. My team had the boat completely apart over the winter, as well as our turbine inventory. They made some changes in the hull to loosen her up a bit, particularly off the turns. The stance is also wider and the dyhedral/anhedrals were shallowed a bit. Should be a great season, with 12 consistent teams at each race, and possibly 14 at a few races. Bayley, if you get there, page me from the pit gate and I'll get you in to see the boat up close.
As to the sensors, everything is std. Merc set up, 2000 model year. As Marty said, welding in the 02 bungs is not a problem in the waterjacket, just need to weld both the inside and outside so by necessity the bung will be close to an opening. Ours are about 2 inches in from the collector/tail pipe joint.
Take care!