Update On Oil Lubrication
#42
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When I was searching out the EAO76 filter for my boat I went to the WIX site and looked up all the filters that would fit a BBC and then went to the Donaldson site and crossed them to Donaldson and checked the specifications of each filter to make sure it was right. Being an Engineer, you always check the source documentation. I had to do the same for my fuel filter the original didn't have a part number or manufacturers name on it so I had to go by dimensions and requirements. I ended up finding an awesome 1qt offroad diesel filter / water seperator good for 10 microns and 15GPM.
#43
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http://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLookups/...rCrossRef.aspx
#44
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Had to do a little cross referencing. The HP1 is the same as a WIX 51515R, which is the racing version of the 51515, which cross references to the AMSOIL EAO15.
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http://wixfilters.com/filterlookup/P...sp?Part=51515R
http://wixfilters.com/filterlookup/P...asp?Part=51515
Last edited by 07DominatorSS; 03-03-2011 at 03:48 PM.
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I assume the "Pure-1 (Amazon)" you mention is the Purolator Pure-1 oil filter? How did you arrive at the conclusion that this filter is good enough for you to endorse? Any test data?
Thanks
#47
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Yes, it crosses to the 51515, but not the 51515R. Those Wix numbers are two totally different filters. Here are links to the two different filters. There are major differences between the two.
http://wixfilters.com/filterlookup/P...sp?Part=51515R
http://wixfilters.com/filterlookup/P...asp?Part=51515
http://wixfilters.com/filterlookup/P...sp?Part=51515R
http://wixfilters.com/filterlookup/P...asp?Part=51515
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So if you are not running a high volume pump would it be more benificial to have the non racing(51515) being it shows it as a 20 micron filter. The 51515R is only good for 61 microns.
Honestly I dont need 28 GPM so the better filtration would be better in my thinking.
What would you guys say??
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As a stock filter ages, it will load up and add back pressure to your oil system. When this starts to happen, the bypass will open. This will occur when the engine is running at the highest rpm or when you don't want it to the most.
I'm not saying that stock filters and factory oil are bad, I'm only saying that state of the art synthetic oil and filters are better. I use to have an auto repair business several lifetimes ago and it wasn't uncommon to rebuild an engine when it hit 80,000 miles. I've seen more engines then I care to remember with sludge so thick you had to use a chisel to get it off. Today my vehicles with over 200,000 are as good as new, and nobody drives a vehicle harder then I do. I have run compression checks on motors after 225,000 and all cylinders were within +/-1.5 pounds and right at factory. My suburban has over 200,000 on it and I fully expect to get over 500,000 before I sell it. Now I don't have a couple mil in the bank and I work hard for each dollar so I try to keep as many of them as I can. I've done the math and I save a ton running synthetic oil in everything. For example, I've been running synthetic in my lawnmower since it was new, that was 26 years ago, the thing still starts the first pull and that's with the original sparkplug. Synthetic saves more then just mechanical wear, it will also save your starter, especially if you live in the northern states, it reduces the load on the starter on those -10 days. Do the math yourself, unless your leasing your boat or you plan on unloading on some poor sucker, take care of it and I won't have to tow you in when it breaks.
I'm not saying that stock filters and factory oil are bad, I'm only saying that state of the art synthetic oil and filters are better. I use to have an auto repair business several lifetimes ago and it wasn't uncommon to rebuild an engine when it hit 80,000 miles. I've seen more engines then I care to remember with sludge so thick you had to use a chisel to get it off. Today my vehicles with over 200,000 are as good as new, and nobody drives a vehicle harder then I do. I have run compression checks on motors after 225,000 and all cylinders were within +/-1.5 pounds and right at factory. My suburban has over 200,000 on it and I fully expect to get over 500,000 before I sell it. Now I don't have a couple mil in the bank and I work hard for each dollar so I try to keep as many of them as I can. I've done the math and I save a ton running synthetic oil in everything. For example, I've been running synthetic in my lawnmower since it was new, that was 26 years ago, the thing still starts the first pull and that's with the original sparkplug. Synthetic saves more then just mechanical wear, it will also save your starter, especially if you live in the northern states, it reduces the load on the starter on those -10 days. Do the math yourself, unless your leasing your boat or you plan on unloading on some poor sucker, take care of it and I won't have to tow you in when it breaks.
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As a stock filter ages, it will load up and add back pressure to your oil system. When this starts to happen, the bypass will open. This will occur when the engine is running at the highest rpm or when you don't want it to the most.
I'm not saying that stock filters and factory oil are bad, I'm only saying that state of the art synthetic oil and filters are better. I use to have an auto repair business several lifetimes ago and it wasn't uncommon to rebuild an engine when it hit 80,000 miles. I've seen more engines then I care to remember with sludge so thick you had to use a chisel to get it off. Today my vehicles with over 200,000 are as good as new, and nobody drives a vehicle harder then I do. I have run compression checks on motors after 225,000 and all cylinders were within +/-1.5 pounds and right at factory. My suburban has over 200,000 on it and I fully expect to get over 500,000 before I sell it. Now I don't have a couple mil in the bank and I work hard for each dollar so I try to keep as many of them as I can. I've done the math and I save a ton running synthetic oil in everything. For example, I've been running synthetic in my lawnmower since it was new, that was 26 years ago, the thing still starts the first pull and that's with the original sparkplug. Synthetic saves more then just mechanical wear, it will also save your starter, especially if you live in the northern states, it reduces the load on the starter on those -10 days. Do the math yourself, unless your leasing your boat or you plan on unloading on some poor sucker, take care of it and I won't have to tow you in when it breaks.
I'm not saying that stock filters and factory oil are bad, I'm only saying that state of the art synthetic oil and filters are better. I use to have an auto repair business several lifetimes ago and it wasn't uncommon to rebuild an engine when it hit 80,000 miles. I've seen more engines then I care to remember with sludge so thick you had to use a chisel to get it off. Today my vehicles with over 200,000 are as good as new, and nobody drives a vehicle harder then I do. I have run compression checks on motors after 225,000 and all cylinders were within +/-1.5 pounds and right at factory. My suburban has over 200,000 on it and I fully expect to get over 500,000 before I sell it. Now I don't have a couple mil in the bank and I work hard for each dollar so I try to keep as many of them as I can. I've done the math and I save a ton running synthetic oil in everything. For example, I've been running synthetic in my lawnmower since it was new, that was 26 years ago, the thing still starts the first pull and that's with the original sparkplug. Synthetic saves more then just mechanical wear, it will also save your starter, especially if you live in the northern states, it reduces the load on the starter on those -10 days. Do the math yourself, unless your leasing your boat or you plan on unloading on some poor sucker, take care of it and I won't have to tow you in when it breaks.
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