synthetic oil in 500EFI?
#31
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If you need a GOOD reason to not run fake oil...go look at this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZxC7...2&feature=plcp . This 502 motor came out of a 32 Fountain running Mercruiiser fake oil and the manifold sprung a leak and loaded the motor up with water. It mixed with the fake oil and not only did it do the mike-shake thing...the stuff was more like a thick pan cake batter. This stuff was very slick, but also very sticky. It did not all drain out. After it quit running out, I pulled the motor apart and then went to the car wash and spent $35.00 trying to get this crap out of the motor.
If you run fake oil and get a water leak on the inside, you can not flush the motor and refill it with oil...you will have to totally take the engine apart...wash it and cook it to get the stuff out.
If you run fake oil and get a water leak on the inside, you can not flush the motor and refill it with oil...you will have to totally take the engine apart...wash it and cook it to get the stuff out.
#33
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Lucas makes a Zinc-heavy "break in additive".
It's something on the order of 36,000ppm of Zinc (and high phosphorus as well).
They can't market it as a "regular" oil additive because it would then be required to NOT alter the oil chemistry outside of the SM/SN specification (somebody quoted a Merc manual stating somethign about SH oils - man, don't I WISH we could still get SH oils.....).
Doing the math and testing it myself, you can add 1 ounce of the Lucas Break In Additive w/Zinc to a quart of SM oil and end up at 1600ppm zinc. For lawn mower engines (flat tappet beasties that they are), I doctor up every quart I use.
For cars and boats with roller lifters? No need for the extra zinc unless you are running something that's severely overstressed.
With that said, synthetic is a superior lubricant under a wider range of temperatures.
MC
It's something on the order of 36,000ppm of Zinc (and high phosphorus as well).
They can't market it as a "regular" oil additive because it would then be required to NOT alter the oil chemistry outside of the SM/SN specification (somebody quoted a Merc manual stating somethign about SH oils - man, don't I WISH we could still get SH oils.....).
Doing the math and testing it myself, you can add 1 ounce of the Lucas Break In Additive w/Zinc to a quart of SM oil and end up at 1600ppm zinc. For lawn mower engines (flat tappet beasties that they are), I doctor up every quart I use.
For cars and boats with roller lifters? No need for the extra zinc unless you are running something that's severely overstressed.
With that said, synthetic is a superior lubricant under a wider range of temperatures.
MC
#34
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So how many Mercury oils are there?
Is it true there are three?
1 Original 25W-40
2 Blended semi synthethic 25W-40
3 Full synthetic 20W-40
Which one would be the best for 500/525 engines? I heard their most recent full synthetic product actually has less of the formerly used antiwear additives because it could hurt catalytic converters. Well, I don't have cats and want the best oil! What about AMSoil Dominator 15W-50?
Thanks, Andy
Is it true there are three?
1 Original 25W-40
2 Blended semi synthethic 25W-40
3 Full synthetic 20W-40
Which one would be the best for 500/525 engines? I heard their most recent full synthetic product actually has less of the formerly used antiwear additives because it could hurt catalytic converters. Well, I don't have cats and want the best oil! What about AMSoil Dominator 15W-50?
Thanks, Andy
#35
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Take a look at this video. This is what happens if you have a screw up and get water in the oil. It is nothing like dino oil and this crap that I am draining out IS Mercury synthic oil. Are you SURE you want to go there???
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZxC7...5&feature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZxC7...5&feature=plcp
#36
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So how many Mercury oils are there?
Is it true there are three?
1 Original 25W-40
2 Blended semi synthethic 25W-40
3 Full synthetic 20W-40
Which one would be the best for 500/525 engines? I heard their most recent full synthetic product actually has less of the formerly used antiwear additives because it could hurt catalytic converters. Well, I don't have cats and want the best oil! What about AMSoil Dominator 15W-50?
Thanks, Andy
Is it true there are three?
1 Original 25W-40
2 Blended semi synthethic 25W-40
3 Full synthetic 20W-40
Which one would be the best for 500/525 engines? I heard their most recent full synthetic product actually has less of the formerly used antiwear additives because it could hurt catalytic converters. Well, I don't have cats and want the best oil! What about AMSoil Dominator 15W-50?
Thanks, Andy
#37
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you cannot use synthetic oil in any marine engine,the rollers on the lifters will slide into infinity,the pistons wont have enough drag,the bearings wont have enough friction,the harmonic balancer wont sing the right tune,the spark plugs will turn pink,and the exhaust will smell like sulpher,never attempt to use it in any marine engine,period.
#38
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you cannot use synthetic oil in any marine engine,the rollers on the lifters will slide into infinity,the pistons wont have enough drag,the bearings wont have enough friction,the harmonic balancer wont sing the right tune,the spark plugs will turn pink,and the exhaust will smell like sulpher,never attempt to use it in any marine engine,period.
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#39
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Sorry Dude, but I know if you chose to ignore the people on this forum (Ray) that make a living and stake their reputation on what they know and sell that is your prerogative. There is a reason that Chevrolet chose to put synthetics in the Corvette many many years ago. It is a know fact that synthetics perform BETTER than conventional oils in ALL categories.
#40
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Mobil 1 15w-50 has 1300 ppm of zinc in it and that is what I run in my 1980 twin turboed BBC
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf