Motor mount help needed
06-03-2002, 10:33 AM
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Motor mount help needed
Well as most of you have been following my progress of this toilet boat that I bought
I yanked one engine on Saturday but the second engine would not come out
I used PB Breaker spray on the 2 rear bell housing bolts that bolt the back of the engine to the transom assembly.
I for the life of me cant get them loose
I dont know what to do
The 2 bolts for the bell housing will NOT turn
Used an impact gun, Would not budge
Used a breaker bar
would not budge
talked to my moron marina place,
they said torch it OR cut the top of the bolt off
This bolt threads into a nut at the bottom of the transom assembly that sits in a little notch to hold the nut from falling down into the bilge area
Im screwed, wtf do I do?
NEED HELP
THanks
Jason
I yanked one engine on Saturday but the second engine would not come out
I used PB Breaker spray on the 2 rear bell housing bolts that bolt the back of the engine to the transom assembly.
I for the life of me cant get them loose
I dont know what to do
The 2 bolts for the bell housing will NOT turn
Used an impact gun, Would not budge
Used a breaker bar
would not budge
talked to my moron marina place,
they said torch it OR cut the top of the bolt off
This bolt threads into a nut at the bottom of the transom assembly that sits in a little notch to hold the nut from falling down into the bilge area
Im screwed, wtf do I do?
NEED HELP
THanks
Jason
06-03-2002, 11:41 AM
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Jason,
If you have enough room to move the motor forward a little when it is coming out, I would go ahead and unbolt the motor from the flywheel housing and then fight with the two mount bolts after you get the motor out of the way. The only thing that might be a little tricky is removing the six or so small cap screws that hold the shield that bolts to the front of the flywheel housing.
I believe the are 7/16" head.
Good luck!
If you have enough room to move the motor forward a little when it is coming out, I would go ahead and unbolt the motor from the flywheel housing and then fight with the two mount bolts after you get the motor out of the way. The only thing that might be a little tricky is removing the six or so small cap screws that hold the shield that bolts to the front of the flywheel housing.
I believe the are 7/16" head.
Good luck!
06-03-2002, 11:54 AM
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I have about 6 or so inches in the front before the crank pulley gets in the way of the floor in front and then that is it
Can I move the engine forward a tad and unbolt the engine coupler maybe?
And what about the exhaust manifold?
do I air chizel the 3 remaining bolts that are just a blob of rust?
I tried hammering a socket on there and that did not work at all
just more or less shaved rust off the remaining bolt head.
WHY would Mercury NOT use stainless bolts on these things?
Dumb in my opinion
these engine are just subject to rot away from day one of being installed.
Im having the worst luck with this whole mess
Allan4's game of tool tossing is really setting in and im getting good at it.
Threw a 3/8ths snap on rachet about 50 yards yesterday because of these exhaust bolts not coming off
also threw the stock intake manifold about 15 feet from being so freakin mad
RRRRRRRRR this thing is going to be the death of me
and probably wont float this year
Jason
Can I move the engine forward a tad and unbolt the engine coupler maybe?
And what about the exhaust manifold?
do I air chizel the 3 remaining bolts that are just a blob of rust?
I tried hammering a socket on there and that did not work at all
just more or less shaved rust off the remaining bolt head.
WHY would Mercury NOT use stainless bolts on these things?
Dumb in my opinion
these engine are just subject to rot away from day one of being installed.
Im having the worst luck with this whole mess
Allan4's game of tool tossing is really setting in and im getting good at it.
Threw a 3/8ths snap on rachet about 50 yards yesterday because of these exhaust bolts not coming off
also threw the stock intake manifold about 15 feet from being so freakin mad
RRRRRRRRR this thing is going to be the death of me
and probably wont float this year
Jason
06-03-2002, 03:32 PM
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I had the same problem on my Formula 3LS when I went to pull the motor.
I ended up having to take everything off the front of the motor, (Power steering and such) then unbolting it from the bell housing to get it out.
I tried every chemical on the market after that and like you a breaker bar pipe and such. I broke 2 sockets before I switched to impact sockets and it did not move an inch.
Ultimately I used a small propane torch to heat the heck out of the nut underneath and a breaker bar with an impact socket on it, placed my feet against the srtinger and yanked, (think I got a hernia), but it did come out.
It took me 2 days to get that stupid bolt out and the bell housing off, I know how you feel.
You cannot cut the top off, the nut underneath is in an aluminum slot and if you try to beat on the bolt it will break the housing.
Good luck, it will come out!
I ended up having to take everything off the front of the motor, (Power steering and such) then unbolting it from the bell housing to get it out.
I tried every chemical on the market after that and like you a breaker bar pipe and such. I broke 2 sockets before I switched to impact sockets and it did not move an inch.
Ultimately I used a small propane torch to heat the heck out of the nut underneath and a breaker bar with an impact socket on it, placed my feet against the srtinger and yanked, (think I got a hernia), but it did come out.
It took me 2 days to get that stupid bolt out and the bell housing off, I know how you feel.
You cannot cut the top off, the nut underneath is in an aluminum slot and if you try to beat on the bolt it will break the housing.
Good luck, it will come out!
06-03-2002, 04:04 PM
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Jason,
Remove the crank pully, it should be held on with three bolts (9/16" heads), that should give you enough forward movment to lift the motor.
What txboater said about not cutting off the bolt heads on the flywheel housing to transom assembly is very true. He is absolutly correct, just heat them up at the nut. and keep applying pressure, but don't use to big of a pipe on the end of that breaker bar because you don't want to snap the housing.
The biggest thing to remember is keep your cool, if you are having a hard time, walk away for a minute and try again!
Believe me, I have done a lot of these projects over the years and it is amazing what a difference a short break will make.
Let me know what happens.
Tom
Remove the crank pully, it should be held on with three bolts (9/16" heads), that should give you enough forward movment to lift the motor.
What txboater said about not cutting off the bolt heads on the flywheel housing to transom assembly is very true. He is absolutly correct, just heat them up at the nut. and keep applying pressure, but don't use to big of a pipe on the end of that breaker bar because you don't want to snap the housing.
The biggest thing to remember is keep your cool, if you are having a hard time, walk away for a minute and try again!
Believe me, I have done a lot of these projects over the years and it is amazing what a difference a short break will make.
Let me know what happens.
Tom
06-03-2002, 04:13 PM
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Tom., how would that bolt snap the housing?
I dont get it?
The shank of the bolt is smooth and fits through a sleeve in the transom assembly
the nut is in that little part at the bottom
Other post says to sawzall off the top of the bolt, then smack it with a punch and hammer to pop the rest of the bolt with the nut out the bottom and more or less snap off the little retainer ears holding that nut where it is
would that break it so bad to the point that it will never work again? hell Ill tape a new nut in there or something so I can thread a new bolt in there
Let me know
thanks
Jason
I dont get it?
The shank of the bolt is smooth and fits through a sleeve in the transom assembly
the nut is in that little part at the bottom
Other post says to sawzall off the top of the bolt, then smack it with a punch and hammer to pop the rest of the bolt with the nut out the bottom and more or less snap off the little retainer ears holding that nut where it is
would that break it so bad to the point that it will never work again? hell Ill tape a new nut in there or something so I can thread a new bolt in there
Let me know
thanks
Jason
06-03-2002, 04:57 PM
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Jason,
It's been a while since I have looked that close at the nut, but I thought I remember it sliding into a slot that keeps it from spinning when you are tightening or loosening.
Heat up the nut, the bolt will twist out by using a 1/2 drive breaker bar.
I'm not saying not to use a little extra leveragem, I am just saying don't put a 4' long pipe on the breaker bar. It would be better not to break the housing!
It's been a while since I have looked that close at the nut, but I thought I remember it sliding into a slot that keeps it from spinning when you are tightening or loosening.
Heat up the nut, the bolt will twist out by using a 1/2 drive breaker bar.
I'm not saying not to use a little extra leveragem, I am just saying don't put a 4' long pipe on the breaker bar. It would be better not to break the housing!
06-03-2002, 06:15 PM
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Another option would be to pull the drive, take the gimble off and then pull the entire engine and transom assembly out.
06-03-2002, 08:36 PM
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I Have run in to this problem twice on different boats. What I have done that is a lot of work but it does work is to drill out the bolt. The situation you described is the bolt is seized to the steel inside liner of the rubber insert in the transom plate. the nut may also be frozen but does not matter with this approch. First I drill a 3/16" hole in the middle of the bolt head as deep as I can go. I keep increasing the drill size until i can snap the head off with a long breaker bar. I then start drilling at the edge of the bolt and the metal liner with the same 3/16" drill the is key to break the liners. Of corse the urge to use a drift pin and hammer is always appealing. Go at it it has never worked for me but it does relive some of the stress and justify you working so hard. once you break the liner the bolt will punch out easily. The piece at the bottom that holds the nut is tapered with no obstruction at the bottom to stop the bolt from coming out. This works and is safe for the boat and the components. Good luck
06-03-2002, 08:39 PM
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Jason,
If you pop the housing by driving the bolt out you could easily start a stress crack in the aluminum that will love to grow and grow under the vibration of use until you have to pull everything out again because of it.
I agree with TOMR, I used a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a heavy duty socket and the propane torch, I also agree with Tom, I took 3 breaks, while trying to get this thing out in 90 degree texas heat. Patience was a virtue.
It will slowly start to turn then out she comes. I was fascinated to see how that bolt had become part of the motor mount. I considered the whacking it off and driving it option as well, but now feel that would been at least as difficutl and casued more damage.
Remeber there is quite a bit of leverage to the inner transom plate from that rear mount, whackin on it is going to resonate all the way back to the transom.
Good luck, it will come out, heat it up and off she'll go.
If you pop the housing by driving the bolt out you could easily start a stress crack in the aluminum that will love to grow and grow under the vibration of use until you have to pull everything out again because of it.
I agree with TOMR, I used a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a heavy duty socket and the propane torch, I also agree with Tom, I took 3 breaks, while trying to get this thing out in 90 degree texas heat. Patience was a virtue.
It will slowly start to turn then out she comes. I was fascinated to see how that bolt had become part of the motor mount. I considered the whacking it off and driving it option as well, but now feel that would been at least as difficutl and casued more damage.
Remeber there is quite a bit of leverage to the inner transom plate from that rear mount, whackin on it is going to resonate all the way back to the transom.
Good luck, it will come out, heat it up and off she'll go.
