Corrosion Problem
06-04-2002, 06:42 PM
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Corrosion Problem
I'm having a major corrosion problem w/drive components.
99 Formula 271, 500hp, Bravo 1.
Boat in fresh water only. Pulled from water and stored on trailer each time. Docked in fresh water for 1 week each year when on vacation.
Problems:
1. Prop corrodes in just 1 day when left in water for the week.
2. Am replacing the trim cable because the end crimp rusted and split allowing the sleeve to move with the cable. This is where the cable goes into the actuator.
3. Trim cable actuator and clamps are abnormally corroded.
4. Hydraulic trim lines (the stainless braided lines) are corroded.
5. Corrosion around lower unit nuts and seams.
Observations:
No corrosion in the engine area.
Ground wires to the drive are attached. (and not corroded)
Anodes look like normal sacrificing.
All electrical components working properly. (gauges, lights, stereo, etc.)
Electrical problem? Ground? Any help would be appreciated.
I have some basic electrical knowledge, but am not electrical smart.
Not sure if anodes are zinc or magnesium. How do i tell?
Zinc for saltwater, magnesium for freshwater? Is this right?
Boat was originally delivered to a saltwater dealer. Does Formula consider where boat is delivered on which anodes they install?
99 Formula 271, 500hp, Bravo 1.
Boat in fresh water only. Pulled from water and stored on trailer each time. Docked in fresh water for 1 week each year when on vacation.
Problems:
1. Prop corrodes in just 1 day when left in water for the week.
2. Am replacing the trim cable because the end crimp rusted and split allowing the sleeve to move with the cable. This is where the cable goes into the actuator.
3. Trim cable actuator and clamps are abnormally corroded.
4. Hydraulic trim lines (the stainless braided lines) are corroded.
5. Corrosion around lower unit nuts and seams.
Observations:
No corrosion in the engine area.
Ground wires to the drive are attached. (and not corroded)
Anodes look like normal sacrificing.
All electrical components working properly. (gauges, lights, stereo, etc.)
Electrical problem? Ground? Any help would be appreciated.
I have some basic electrical knowledge, but am not electrical smart.
Not sure if anodes are zinc or magnesium. How do i tell?
Zinc for saltwater, magnesium for freshwater? Is this right?
Boat was originally delivered to a saltwater dealer. Does Formula consider where boat is delivered on which anodes they install?
06-04-2002, 08:32 PM
#2
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Mercathode
You need to check the function of the Mercathode system on the boat. It may be malfunctioning and causing the corrosion. If you can find a service manual for your engine it will tell you how to test the system. Maybe someone on here will have it handy. Mines at the shop right now. You can check the wires on the blue Mercathode module and make sure they are in the correct places. They are color coded. Black wire to black terminal, blue to blue, tan to tan, and so forth.
Good luck and if no one has a manual handy message me and I will bring it home tomorrow.
Ron
Good luck and if no one has a manual handy message me and I will bring it home tomorrow.
Ron
06-05-2002, 01:18 AM
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From your photo and discription, it seems only the stainless steel is rusting. The aluminium looks good. Is this accurate? I recently asked someone about the Mercathode system for a boat I keep in the water. They explained that aluminum surounded by a certain voltage range, oxidizes the least. If it's too low or high, either the paint will not be able to adhear and come off, or the aluminium will oxidize rapidly (can't remember witch does what). I wonder if your in a range that effects the stainless steel. I would usually ask if there is a possible current leak into the water from a nearby boat or dock, but that has already been asked. Do you keep it in the same place when this happens? You can test the Mercathode with a meter in the water. I was also told recently some acids commonly used to clean stainless steel on boats needs to be neutralized after use. Have you used an acid to remove the rust? There has to be a metalergist/rocket scientist on the board. We need to find him
06-05-2002, 01:23 AM
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From your photo and discription, it seems only the stainless steel is rusting. The aluminium looks good. Is this accurate? I recently asked someone about the Mercathode system for a boat I keep in the water. They explained that aluminum surounded by a certain voltage range, oxidizes the least. If it's too low or high, either the paint will not be able to adhear and come off, or the aluminium will oxidize rapidly (can't remember witch does what). I wonder if your in a range that effects the stainless steel. I would usually ask if there is a possible current leak into the water from a nearby boat or dock, but that has already been asked. Do you keep it in the same place when this happens? You can test the Mercathode with a meter in the water. I was also told recently some acids commonly used to clean stainless steel on boats needs to be neutralized after use. Have you used an acid to remove the rust? There has to be a metalergist/rocket scientist on the board. We need to find him
06-05-2002, 08:18 AM
#7
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Platinum Member
Okay, I finally found it.
This is something I remember reading a few issues(months) ago in one of my Boat-U.S. publications.
It may be the answer to your problem -- There may be some sort of stray current affecting your boat(whether from your boat or from a 'friendly' dock neighbor).
This is something I remember reading a few issues(months) ago in one of my Boat-U.S. publications.
It may be the answer to your problem -- There may be some sort of stray current affecting your boat(whether from your boat or from a 'friendly' dock neighbor).
06-05-2002, 10:48 AM
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Fred,
It seems accelerated when I dock it in the fresh water lake up in NY when I go up on vacation each year. The lake is really, really clean compared to Tillery. The corrosion does persist even in Tillery, maybe slower as I pull the boat out each time.
TNT,
You are correct, it is the stainless that is corroding, although there is corrosion at the seams of the lower case/upper case.
I do keep it in the same place when I notice the worst corrosion happening, however I think the corroding is going on all the time when in the water. I just notice it more when I leave it in the water for a few days. I haven't cleaned with any acids.
Baja,
I'm sure it is not from a dock neighbor as there is no one hooked to shore power where I dock it. I however, do think it is an electrical leak or ground problem with my boat. I just have to figure out what.
It seems accelerated when I dock it in the fresh water lake up in NY when I go up on vacation each year. The lake is really, really clean compared to Tillery. The corrosion does persist even in Tillery, maybe slower as I pull the boat out each time.
TNT,
You are correct, it is the stainless that is corroding, although there is corrosion at the seams of the lower case/upper case.
I do keep it in the same place when I notice the worst corrosion happening, however I think the corroding is going on all the time when in the water. I just notice it more when I leave it in the water for a few days. I haven't cleaned with any acids.
Baja,
I'm sure it is not from a dock neighbor as there is no one hooked to shore power where I dock it. I however, do think it is an electrical leak or ground problem with my boat. I just have to figure out what.
06-05-2002, 09:13 PM
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I read about your problem ,something is not right, I will ask around and run the midnight computer and see if we can figure it out for you . you by chance dont have a on board blender and throwing the remains over board. the last time I ran with a 500hp on one of the finger lakes I blew one of my blower motors.
06-05-2002, 09:38 PM
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marty, look and see if the cable that is hooked to your trim indicator on your dash is rusted as bad as it is on the drive. gary was telling me about this when we were fishing last week , I really did not understand until I saw your photo. Are all your grounds hooked up buy the photo the one end is hooked to the drive but is it hooked on the other end. and there is another one from the gimble to the motor.
