EFI for everyone
08-31-2014, 10:20 AM
#381
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Been doing a bunch of research in preparation for my efi journey this winter. Been reading every forum post over at forums.holly.com in the efi section. Stumbled across a post about moving the o2 sensor out of the exhaust stream. It looks like this has been done with great success! Maybe it would help with some of those having reversion issues?
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=2
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=2
08-31-2014, 10:59 AM
#382
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The subject of the O2 sensor getting wet. This is only in reference to the Holley. I have tried the Innovate stand-off, they claim they are for heat, to keep excessive heat-build-up off the outer housing. Tried one on a 540 in a Formula, it keeps it dry.
I installed on on a 24 Baja with a 383 Holley Stealth Tunnel Ram, running CMI E-Tops, and dry tails. This boat has a full fiberglass swim platform, between 1200-2000 rpms, in gear, the platform is sealed over the water, causing the O2 sensor to read lean and add fuel. AS Alex, will tell you; 1 you can reduce timing @ idle, or change the parameters on closed-loop-learn.
This thread is about the Holley EFI, if you are having a issue with some other type EFI, I would call that manufacturer or start a different Thread.
I installed on on a 24 Baja with a 383 Holley Stealth Tunnel Ram, running CMI E-Tops, and dry tails. This boat has a full fiberglass swim platform, between 1200-2000 rpms, in gear, the platform is sealed over the water, causing the O2 sensor to read lean and add fuel. AS Alex, will tell you; 1 you can reduce timing @ idle, or change the parameters on closed-loop-learn.
This thread is about the Holley EFI, if you are having a issue with some other type EFI, I would call that manufacturer or start a different Thread.
08-31-2014, 06:45 PM
#383
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The subject of the O2 sensor getting wet. This is only in reference to the Holley. I have tried the Innovate stand-off, they claim they are for heat, to keep excessive heat-build-up off the outer housing. Tried one on a 540 in a Formula, it keeps it dry.
I installed on on a 24 Baja with a 383 Holley Stealth Tunnel Ram, running CMI E-Tops, and dry tails. This boat has a full fiberglass swim platform, between 1200-2000 rpms, in gear, the platform is sealed over the water, causing the O2 sensor to read lean and add fuel. AS Alex, will tell you; 1 you can reduce timing @ idle, or change the parameters on closed-loop-learn.
This thread is about the Holley EFI, if you are having a issue with some other type EFI, I would call that manufacturer or start a different Thread.
I installed on on a 24 Baja with a 383 Holley Stealth Tunnel Ram, running CMI E-Tops, and dry tails. This boat has a full fiberglass swim platform, between 1200-2000 rpms, in gear, the platform is sealed over the water, causing the O2 sensor to read lean and add fuel. AS Alex, will tell you; 1 you can reduce timing @ idle, or change the parameters on closed-loop-learn.
This thread is about the Holley EFI, if you are having a issue with some other type EFI, I would call that manufacturer or start a different Thread.
08-31-2014, 07:00 PM
#384
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Alex,
I have been doing a crazy amount of research in preparation for my EFI upgrade this winter. Now that I blew a head gasket last weekend (most likely from a lean condition) this will just accelate my move to EFI! I do have some questions that maybe you could answer for me.
1. I know the ECU is fully potted which should mean it is protected from vibration. Do you see any issues mounting it on the engine? I plan to rubber mount it anyway as an additional precaution.
2. How far away from the distributer, MSD and coil should the ECU be mounted? Do you think 6-8" is enough?
3. Have you seen any issues with the ECU getting a voltage spike when you turn on the battery switch? I read a few posts where they said if you disconnect the battery for any reason that you should disconnect the ECU from the harness before applying power back to the battery to protect from a spike.
4. It seems like the ECU can monitor fuel pressure, water temp and oil pressure. Can these be configured to kill the engine (or enter some form of limp mode) if these fall outside of a high/low set point?
I am sure I will have more questions as I continue to dive into this technology!
Thanks
Jim
I have been doing a crazy amount of research in preparation for my EFI upgrade this winter. Now that I blew a head gasket last weekend (most likely from a lean condition) this will just accelate my move to EFI! I do have some questions that maybe you could answer for me.
1. I know the ECU is fully potted which should mean it is protected from vibration. Do you see any issues mounting it on the engine? I plan to rubber mount it anyway as an additional precaution.
2. How far away from the distributer, MSD and coil should the ECU be mounted? Do you think 6-8" is enough?
3. Have you seen any issues with the ECU getting a voltage spike when you turn on the battery switch? I read a few posts where they said if you disconnect the battery for any reason that you should disconnect the ECU from the harness before applying power back to the battery to protect from a spike.
4. It seems like the ECU can monitor fuel pressure, water temp and oil pressure. Can these be configured to kill the engine (or enter some form of limp mode) if these fall outside of a high/low set point?
I am sure I will have more questions as I continue to dive into this technology!
Thanks
Jim
08-31-2014, 10:47 PM
#385
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Alex,
I have been doing a crazy amount of research in preparation for my EFI upgrade this winter. Now that I blew a head gasket last weekend (most likely from a lean condition) this will just accelate my move to EFI! I do have some questions that maybe you could answer for me.
1. I know the ECU is fully potted which should mean it is protected from vibration. Do you see any issues mounting it on the engine? I plan to rubber mount it anyway as an additional precaution. No problem mounting it to the engine
2. How far away from the distributer, MSD and coil should the ECU be mounted? Do you think 6-8" is enough?
More then enough.
3. Have you seen any issues with the ECU getting a voltage spike when you turn on the battery switch? I read a few posts where they said if you disconnect the battery for any reason that you should disconnect the ECU from the harness before applying power back to the battery to protect from a spike. I always attach the main ecu power and ground directly to the battery
4. It seems like the ECU can monitor fuel pressure, water temp and oil pressure. Can these be configured to kill the engine (or enter some form of limp mode) if these fall outside of a high/low set point? Absolutely. You can trigger alarms, pull timing, limit engine rpm, or all of the above.
I am sure I will have more questions as I continue to dive into this technology!
Thanks
Jim
I have been doing a crazy amount of research in preparation for my EFI upgrade this winter. Now that I blew a head gasket last weekend (most likely from a lean condition) this will just accelate my move to EFI! I do have some questions that maybe you could answer for me.
1. I know the ECU is fully potted which should mean it is protected from vibration. Do you see any issues mounting it on the engine? I plan to rubber mount it anyway as an additional precaution. No problem mounting it to the engine
2. How far away from the distributer, MSD and coil should the ECU be mounted? Do you think 6-8" is enough?
More then enough.
3. Have you seen any issues with the ECU getting a voltage spike when you turn on the battery switch? I read a few posts where they said if you disconnect the battery for any reason that you should disconnect the ECU from the harness before applying power back to the battery to protect from a spike. I always attach the main ecu power and ground directly to the battery
4. It seems like the ECU can monitor fuel pressure, water temp and oil pressure. Can these be configured to kill the engine (or enter some form of limp mode) if these fall outside of a high/low set point? Absolutely. You can trigger alarms, pull timing, limit engine rpm, or all of the above.
I am sure I will have more questions as I continue to dive into this technology!
Thanks
Jim
08-31-2014, 11:46 PM
#386
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Shoot just read this thread this guy doing same thing as me ,my 540 going In a Taylor sj with a dominator set back pump gil exhaust ,creative water flow control and minimal rubber parts in exhaust .its a floating dyno with a mefi 4 reflashed ,high impedance injectors 1050 billet throttle body needs to idle good cruise at 2600 rpm max out at 5600 or so .I'm staring at parts now sounds like this guy is almost there .have seen aluminum spacers that will fit a wide band between riser and manifold if hatch height is generous .or hatch is removed
09-01-2014, 08:14 AM
#387
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So let me clarify. Nothing directly attaches to my batteries except the line that feeds my battery switches. (Dual batteries, dual switches). This way I can turn the battery switches off at the end of the day and know the boat is completely dead electrically. Are you saying I should bypass the battery switches and connect the big red & black wire from the ECU directly to the battery posts?
09-01-2014, 09:35 AM
#388
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Ac voltage spikes from solenoids and bad charging system wiring -unregulated alternators used to put the hurt to stand alone efi boxes . And sometimes even expensive stereo amplifiers I'm thinking the accel efi units maybe
09-01-2014, 09:43 AM
#389
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So let me clarify. Nothing directly attaches to my batteries except the line that feeds my battery switches. (Dual batteries, dual switches). This way I can turn the battery switches off at the end of the day and know the boat is completely dead electrically. Are you saying I should bypass the battery switches and connect the big red & black wire from the ECU directly to the battery posts?
09-01-2014, 10:36 AM
#390
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So let me clarify. Nothing directly attaches to my batteries except the line that feeds my battery switches. (Dual batteries, dual switches). This way I can turn the battery switches off at the end of the day and know the boat is completely dead electrically. Are you saying I should bypass the battery switches and connect the big red & black wire from the ECU directly to the battery posts?
