indysupra

Tibb have you tried to idle it at 10 deg and then adjust the fuel and see how it likes it? Also do you have spark timing control on? I saw you posted about the learning at idle, I turn the idle learn off and zero out the learn control and rate in those cells.

hadleycat

Emailed you my files let me know if they came thru OK

hadleycat

Myself I think all of the Global Folders Holley provides are geared towards automotive applications. They do not have to deal with an abrupt shift from neutral to into gear.

The resident expert on the Holley EFI site was baffled by the issue of a boat stalling when put into gear. I consulted with Haxby and he steered me in the right direction

HaxbySpeed

The change should be very abrupt, the timing acts like a switch, no need to ramp it in. You can give it as much timing as it will take, the only thing to be careful of is the idle spark timing will add timing as well when the rpm is lower then the commanded idle. If you set your base timing too high the added timing can cause a slight missfire which throws off your O2 sensor and makes it difficult to tune. Your IAC should be in the 10 to 15% range, the transition is much smoother when it's bypassing a little more air to begin with, and it seems to respond a bit quicker too. Make sure its got a solid block of cells with the same timing in the area where it's idling so it's not fluctuating from grabbing different values from the surrounding cells. You can adjust the rpm scale on the bottom if you need more resolution, or if it's idling in a value that's between rows.[ATTACH=CONFIG]560255[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]560256[/ATTACH]

bck

I'm not sure if you can incorporate it with your fuel injection/ distributor, but just as info the Daytona ignition has an anti stall feature where it automatically bumps timing if engine drops below a preset rpm.

Tibbstoy2

Thanks Alex, Rob, Indysupra and Rob for the information!

I have updated my spark (to reflect in gear vs. neutral)... So far I basically blended what Haxby and hadleycat are doing. I also tweaked my fuel table slightly to try to richen slightly to catch the low idle jump to in-gear.

Alex,
1. I'm surprised to hear the IAC should be 10-15%, if you said that on the Holley Forums... they would have banned you, LOL. But as stated before, we're talking about boats, and I understand your reasoning. I assume this will mean the throttle blades at 0% TPS are slightly more closed (allowing the IAC to run more percentage). I will give it a try.

2. Another thing I noticed, both GimmeFuel and Hadleycat were running very similar programs (both from Haxby, makes sense). Most of my settings are very similar. One major difference was cranking fuel. I have tinkered with cranking fuel a fair amount a few years ago, but it takes 4-5 revolutions to start - and when it starts, the engines start pretty strongly hot or cold. I typically have not used the pre-prime because it only helps by 1 revolution. Bottom line, I use 16 lbs of fuel to start the engines and the Haxby configs all seem to want 2x the fuel. When I increased my cranking fuel by 10-20% in the past, it seems to backfire through the intake... Is it possible I need way more fuel and if I increase it to match the other guys, my engine will fire within the first 1-2 revs of the crank? In other words, it backfired because 16lbs was half of what it needed, causing it to not fire until another revolution? Then when I tried adding 10-20%, it backfired due to an "in between" amount? I do have DIS waste fire coils, so it possible it ignited on the off stroke?

-When I introduced the pre-prime, it only likes 100%, 110,120,130% all backfire occasionally.

3. One other question: what is the best way to set up a rev limiter (limp mode) when a sensor goes out of caution/warning - currently a timing cut is the easy limit, but nothing for RPM? I know people have used an custom input/output with rules set up to limit RPM. I also know the boost ICF has additional rev limiter control that removes the need, but since I run an NA motor and a 1 bar MAP sensor, I obviously can't use the boost ICF. If someone that has this figured out can post a few screen shots of the I/O and/or settings used to set this up - I'm sure it would help many people.

Thanks!

Tibbstoy2

Thanks for the cross reference bck! Yes, the Holley EFI tables absolutely let you pick any timing you want at any rpm and MAP pressure. So the tuneability is limitless. The only trick is figuring out exactly how much timing Daytona adds to catch a stall. Is that programmable (if so we could match it) or is it built in to the box?

bck

I'll have to dig out my instructions for the details. It's a built-in feature you access with a laptop. edit- I looked it up. You can also find it as a download on Daytona Sensors website under FAQ CD1 Marine. It looks like you can manually program the rpm below which the timing will advance and how much you want the timing to advance. It can be deactivated for a set period during startup so it only works works while the engine is idling. I've never used this feature, I just know of its existence.

MILD THUNDER

With the daytona box, you can enable idle stabilization. You can add up to 20 degrees of advance with it, from your base setting, as long as it doesn't exceed your trigger timing. Example. Say your base timing in nuetral, at idle , is 16 degrees at 900RPM. You can set the idle stabilization, to say, 700RPM engagement, and when you shift into gear under load, the engine will now idle with 36* of timing while in gear (provided your trigger timing is 36 or higher). You can adjust the RPM that it kicks in as well. When data logging, you can clearly see idle stabilization doing its thing.

kvogt

You can activate the boost icf. Then in the safety setup use the switched trigger and select cut ignition. remember this actually act as a rev limiter at around 2500 rpm