Cord

You are absolutly correct. Replacing a fusable link is a pita. Guess that I was just thinking that I'd prefer to fry a fusable link that blow a sensitive fuse. If the fusable link burns up, the actuator will be at least a foot up. That'll be enough to get into the engine bay. Guess that it's really a matter of preference as either once will be better than nothing.

Shorty

Like Audio said, I've got two 10g wires spliced to my hatch motor that are accessible when the hatch is down. If the battery dies, I take the cap off the two leads, hook the portable battery charger to them and up goes the hatch. Then move the charger inside.

Actually came like that from the factory, which was a nice touch. But it should be real easy to do. Just be sure to cap the leads, as they will be live anytime you press the hatch button.

kook

thanks for the responses. I'll look at Jeg's and will also consider the simple idea of running some 10awg wire to the hatch cylinder pump.

mcollinstn

If all you want to do is raise the hatch, I just got through installing two units in friends' boats and we decided that slotting the bracket that the actuator bolt goes through would be a good solution. We let the unit down and marked the angle of the actuator on the bracket, then raised it up and marked it again. We then picked a spot to mill the slot in the bracket. Slot is located as close to parallel to the actuator when closed, except the slot is rotated enough that the pressure angle when open isn;t near the slot. This way, if the batt is dead OR IF THE ACTUATOR FREEZES WHEN DOWN, you can get a man-grip on the hatch and lift it hard enough for the actuator to pull out of the slot. No "normal" forces will pull the actuator out of the slot, except if you try to guillotine somebody in half with the hatch by closing it on them - it will pull out then, a fine safety feature for those inclined to smash victims in half with their hatch.

Mickey

My batteries went dead this year, couldn't lift the hatch by hand, way too heavy. I just popped the hatch switch out of the dash and ran jumper leads from a newly uninstalled battery (sitting on the floor of the boat) to the hot and ground on the switch. Pushed the switch and it opened right up. I have to admit, the hatch switch was easlily accessable. Yours may not be.

kook

yep, my switch is accessible. Never considered that route.

GeoGraphics INC

You can find what you are looking for at any good auto parts store like NAPA its what tow trucks use to jump cars

mpally

What are you guys going to do if your hatch motor freezes up and won't work. Had this happen and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas.

kook

Look up a few posts - mcollinstn's post . I printed this out. We have a machine shop at work. May not get to it this year, but I will certainly try this mod next season (got enough things I need to do to the boat already).

BajaBoss252

This is the way Baja does it from the factory...