ThisIsLivin

I have a Masterlube accumulator on my boat, and I love it. I use it for pre-oiling and as an accumulator when I'm in really rough water, it helps prevent pump cavitation. After spending over $10k on rebuilding my motor, it's cheap insurance.

UrbanDisturbance

My Masterlube does not work like it used to. Even when it is empty, it reads 30lbs of pressure. It worked very well for about 5 years. I would try the one with the electric motor. After the accumulator is empty on the Masterlube, that's it. You can't get oil back into it until the engine starts. When you change your engine oil with the Masterlube installed, a lot of old oil is still in the accumulator. You would have to drain those manually, fill them back up half way, then re-pressure it up to 80 PSI. My engines are being redone and I am debating to put the Masterlube back on. I would just crank the engine without starting it to get oil circulating.

1 MAIDEN AMERICA

I wanna see the post that comes after "I was holding the rubber plug in and....."

BIGBREW

So what would be an inexpensive, yet effective way of pre oilimg the motor before a post winter start up. Pull all the spark plugs and put a squirt of oil in the cylinder? Maybe un-plugging the cpu and turning the motor over to build some pressure?

stevesxm

i thought EXACTLY the same thing......

ThisIsLivin

Masterlubes have a lifetime warranty, I would call them, they are great to work with. The charge empty should be 50% of your running oil pressure. If you don't have the solenoid then you have an accumulator, not pre-oiler. Mine always drains completely, it sounds like yours might not be mounted correctly. Check their site they have complete instructions on installation and mounting.

88Fount33

Made my on pre-luber/oil change pump set up.

Used poly bodied triple diaphragm pump (Grainger) with built in pressure switch (20 psi on to 40 pis off), piped it into the lines with a check valve so that when the engine oil pump kicks in, it shuts the check valve (the pump has it's own check valve but I want double protection). Boat sits for sometimes 4 weeks, just switch the pump on for a couple of minutes, turn key switch to "on", watch oil pressure gauge cycle between 20 to 40, bump the starter to rotate cam and close valves that were open and open valves that were closed so all the lifters get pumped up. Let it sit for another minute or two, then start it up! little to no lifter noise, engine oil pump builds to real pressure, then I just switch off the pre-lube pump. Since pumps are not CG approved, have them mounted under rear bench and 1/2 inch oil lines running back to the engines. Put in quick connect fitting on discharge side of each line and oil changes are rapid.

TexomaPowerboater

+1

BIGBREW

So just unplug the main cpu and bump the motor a few times?

Pismo10

$700 with no end fittings. Too much. Others for less